These sugary, fluffy, custard-filled buns are available year round, but they’re particularly popular as a summertime snack on the beach. That may sound strange… but allow us to explain and we can assure you that you will not want to miss them on your next trip to Portugal.

Here’s everything you need to know about bolas de Berlim, from their origins and ingredients to the best places to try them in Lisbon.

What are bolas de Berlim?

Let’s start with the name. In Portuguese, bola means “ball,” and Berlim means “Berlin,” as in the capital of Germany. If you’ve ever heard the urban legend about John F. Kennedy accidentally calling himself a jelly doughnut while giving a speech in Berlin, you might be familiar with the fact that the word Berliner refers to a certain German pastry (as well as a person from Berlin).

A German Berliner is essentially a hole-less yeast doughnut, usually with fruit jam in the middle, which bears a strong resemblance to the Portuguese bola de Berlim. The main difference is that, in Portugal, it’s traditionally filled with a thick yellow custard (creme de ovo) rather than jam. It’s also usually covered in a generous layer of granulated sugar.

Modern bolas de Berlim come in other varieties, too. The most common of which is stuffed with chocolate and hazelnut spread, instead of creme. They’re sometimes also available without filling (simples), or with Kinder Bueno cream.

If you ever come across a version with dark brown alfarroba (carob) mixed into the dough itself, we highly suggest giving it a try.

A brief history of bolas de Berlim

So, how did the “Berlin ball” become such an icon of Portuguese culture? This pastry supposedly has its roots in World War II, when many German Jews fled to Portugal (which remained a neutral country throughout the conflict). According to historians, they brought the recipe for filled and sugar-coated doughnuts with them and recreated it on Portuguese soil.

Like many modern residents of Portugal, these wartime refugees apparently spent quite a bit of time by the sea – especially during the scorching summers – and the tradition of eating bolas de Berlim on the beach was born.

Over time the recipe evolved, and the original fruit filling was replaced by egg custard: a core element of many classic Portuguese desserts.

Sun, sand, and sugar: Bolas de Berlim on the beach

Today you can find bolas de Berlim in many cafés and supermarkets. However, the most common place to enjoy them is still on the sand – a unique tradition that makes summer days just a little bit sweeter. But, we’re not suggesting that you bring a case of bolas de Berlim in your bag. For the full experience, you have to buy them once you’ve already arrived at the beach.

Along with the crashing waves and the sea breeze, there’s another sound you’re likely to hear on Portuguese beaches during summer. Keep your ears open for the singsong voices of vendors who walk along the sand announcing their goods to beachgoers with a classic phrase: Olha a bolinha! (Literally, “Look at the little ball!”)

Flag a vendor down and dig up some coins to purchase a fresh bola de Berlim from the large coolers they carry up and down the beach. More often than not, that’s all they’re selling. No water, no soda, no healthy snacks. Just perfectly soft and sugary doughnuts with a generous dollop of creme de ovo in the middle. If you’re visiting Lisbon on a budget, this is definitely an extraordinary must for a typical snack.

Where to find the best bolas de Berlim in Lisbon

If you’re looking for the best bolas de Berlim in Portugal, head to a popular beach during summer. There, look and listen carefully for vendors.

This may not seem like the simplest solution, but there’s something special about the pastries that come out of those coolers. Maybe it’s just the power of tradition, or the idyllic seaside setting, but they always seem to taste better. Make sure to check Lisbon’s tram service to reach different beaches.

Of course, this isn’t always possible. Luckily, you can also find delicious bolas de Berlim all year round at some of the best bakeries in Lisbon. Try the ones from Sacolinha, which come with the classic creme, or caramel-colored doce de leite. You can also order them straight to your door from Bolas da Praia. And for a plant-based version, try the ones from Gupi Vegan Pastry.

If you are feeling adventurous but can’t make it to Portugal, you can try making them at home. Keep in mind that you’ll need to make the custard from scratch, let the dough rise, and deep-fry the doughnuts. It may be a bit of a project, but it’s totally worth it. You’ll get a taste of this sugary symbol of Portuguese summers past and present.

Update notice: This article was updated on March 13, 2025.

If you’re traveling to Lisbon, why not sign up for one of our food tours? You’ll get to explore the city with a group of other food lovers, led by an expert guide who knows all the local secrets. It’s the perfect way to pack all of the most delicious highlights into just a few hours!

The post Bolas de Berlim: A Sweet Symbol of Summer in Portugal appeared first on Devour Tours.

Some destinations are famous for baguettes or bagels, but Portugal has a more diverse array of specialties. One of the best parts of discovering its cuisine is getting to know all of its endless varieties of bread, many of which represent specific regions or highlight unique ingredients.

To show you what we’re talking about—and prepare you to order at any bakery in Lisbon—here are a few of the most fascinating and flavorful types of Portuguese bread.

Pão Alentejano

Portugal’s Alentejo region is renowned for its wine, olives, and, of course, bread. This largely rural region is quite literally the country’s breadbasket, so it only makes sense that it has its own iconic style of pão. 

Literally meaning “bread from Alentejo,” pão alentejano is a simple combination of pure wheat flour, yeast, water, and salt. The secret is in the quality of the ingredients and the traditional method of baking it in a wood-fired oven.

Local tip: If you’re looking for authentic pão alentejano, keep an eye out for its traditional shape: a large loaf with a smaller mound of dough on top. 

Broa de Milho

The word broa has multiple meanings in Portuguese; food-wise, it can refer to either a small cookie or a style of bread. When it comes to bread, we’re usually talking about broa de milho, which is made with cornmeal—either instead of or in addition to wheat.

The result is kind of like a cross between cornbread and a really good loaf of wheat bread or sourdough. It’s moist and crumbly, sometimes slightly sweet, and a key ingredient in many classic Portuguese dishes like bacalhau com broa and migas.

Local tip: You can find decent broa at supermarkets in Lisbon, but for a truly transcendent experience try the broa de milho from Gleba.

Pão de Alfarroba

You may or may not be familiar with alfarroba (carob), which has a similar taste and appearance to cacao. But if you’ve been to Portugal, you’ve almost certainly encountered it somewhere; it’s relatively common here, especially as an addition to bread. 

Pão de alfarroba, or carob bread, is made with wheat (and sometimes rye) flour, plus just enough carob to turn it a lovely shade of dark brown. Its slightly nutty flavor can elevate a simple sandwich or slice of toast to a whole new level.

Local tip: Many Portuguese cafés sell sandwiches made with small round rolls of pão de alfarroba. If you spot them, try one!

Bolo do Caco

Madeira, like many islands, has developed its own culinary culture through its centuries of isolation from mainland Portugal. One of the key elements of Madeiran cuisine is bolo do caco, a flat, round bread roll that has a secret ingredient: sweet potato.

On the island, bolo do caco is often toasted on a griddle and slathered with fresh garlic and herb butter. But this versatile bread is also the perfect size for burgers and sandwiches—which many restaurants capitalize on to add a unique touch of Madeiran culture to otherwise familiar treats.

Local tip: You might see the option on a menu to swap out the regular bread or bun for bolo do caco; this is pretty much always a good idea.

Bolo Lêvedo

Not to be confused with Madeira, the Azores (or Açores in Portuguese) also have their own iconic bread. The bolo lêvedo has its origins on the largest of these nine islands, São Miguel, in the village of Furnas (which is also famous for its cozido).

It kind of looks like an English muffin: round, flattened, and lightly browned on both sides. Because the recipe includes sugar, milk, and eggs, bolos lêvedos have a slightly sweeter and richer flavor than your average bread. 

Local tip: In Furnas it’s especially common to have a bolo lêvedo for breakfast, but you can enjoy one as part of any meal—even dessert.

Pão de Água

If you speak even a little bit of Portuguese, you know that pão de água literally means “water bread”—which may not sound too exciting. But although it’s among the simplest types of Portuguese bread, it’s well worth trying.

Portuguese pão de água is light, fluffy, and perfect for pairing with pretty much anything. It often comes in the form of small round rolls, but you can also find it in loaves to slice and use for toast or sandwiches. 

Local tip: Beyond the classic pão de água, you might find creative versions that incorporate olives or different types of flour.

Pão de Mafra

Mafra is a city just north of Lisbon and inland from Ericeira, known mainly for its ornate National Palace—and its bread. Pão de Mafra is a common sight throughout the region and the capital, whether in the form of large loaves or bite-sized rolls.

Although its ingredients are basic, pão de Mafra stands out for its soft texture and distinctive flavor. The traditional recipe involves a specific fermentation process and—ideally—the use of stone-ground flour.

Local tip: The traditional shape of pão de Mafra is an elongated loaf with a slightly larger segment at one end; look for this if you want to try the real deal.

Papo-Seco

Also known as a carcaça (among other nicknames), the papo-seco may be the most iconic yet  unassuming variety of Portuguese bread. Like some of the other breads on this list, there’s nothing special about the ingredients: flour, water, salt, yeast, and sometimes oil or butter. 

So what makes papos-secos unique? They have a super light texture and delicate crust, and come in the form of oblong rolls with a split down the middle. They’re the kind of humble, nostalgic bread that many Portuguese people grew up eating every day.

Local tip: A papo-seco is the bun of choice for a bifana, as its soft interior soaks up all the delicious flavor from the marinated pork.

Update notice: This article was updated on March 13, 2025.

Is your mouth watering yet? Well, if you’re looking to dig deeper into Portuguese cuisine, make sure to check out our Lisbon food tours. From Food & Wine tours to Fado tours, our local tour guides will lead you to the best places to eat and drink in Lisbon!

The post Pão or Broa? 9 Types of Mouth-Watering Portuguese Bread appeared first on Devour Tours.

Of course when it comes to things to do in Evora, exploring the local dining scene is on the list.

Read along for some of our favorite Evora restaurants, from traditional tascas to modern wine bars.

The best Evora restaurants

Evora is the capital of Portugal’s vast Alentejo region, which is known for its vineyards, cork trees, and incredible food. Typical cuisine highlights local ingredients and simple specialties, like the legendary pão alentejano (regional bread).

The best restaurants in Evora run the spectrum from no-frills taverns to chic dining spaces, serving hearty comfort food, gourmet small plates, and everything in between. But one thing they have in common is respect for the local culinary heritage—and a passion for sharing it. 

Whether you want to try the city’s best açorda or sample local wine and cheese, the top Évora restaurants won’t disappoint.

Botequim da Mouraria

This is the kind of no-frills bar where the focus is squarely on the food: classic regional dishes prepared with exceptional care. Botequim da Mouraria (R. da Mouraria 16A, 7000-585) has been run by the same husband-and-wife team for decades, transforming it into the stuff of local legend.

It’s a comfortable, cozy space that only has seats for about 10 people—so be prepared to wait (it’s worth it). We suggest ordering a few plates to share, like the melt-in-your mouth presunto (cured ham) with melon and figs, or the exquisitely simple roasted mushrooms.

Taberna Típica Quarta Feira

This family-run restaurant will make you feel like you’ve been invited into a local home, and that’s not so far from the truth. At Taberna Típica Quarta-Feira (R. do Inverno 16, 7000-599) you’ll be served a selection of daily dishes chosen by Chef João, whose father opened the taberna in the early 1990s.

If the lack of a menu concerns you, don’t worry; you’re in good hands. They have both traditional and creative dishes, and a big part of the fun is that you never know exactly what you’re going to get—but it’s guaranteed to be delicious.

Origens

This contemporary restaurant is built on the pillars of local products, regional flavors, and sustainability. Origens offers three- and five-course tasting menus as well as à la carte options and petiscos (small plates), including vegetarian versions of traditional dishes.

Its menu features classic recipes made with seasonal ingredients, often with a modern touch. Think local sheep’s cheese with toasted pão alentejano, roasted octopus with carrot purée, wild boar slow-cooked in red wine, or farinheira sausage with potatoes and scrambled egg.

Enoteca Cartuxa

Enoteca Cartuxa is run by the Eugénio de Almeida Foundation, which is dedicated to developing the Evora region. One way it does so is through the production of outstanding wines and olive oils, which you can enjoy at this colorful wine bar in the city center.

Its small menu offers specialties like chestnut soup, sauteed squid with mushrooms, and a delicious take on the iconic migas (a regional dish made of leftover bread cooked with pork). Pair some petiscos with a bottle of Cartuxa’s own wine, and you may never want to leave.

Dom Joaquim

Dom Joaquim expertly fuses tradition and innovation, with a menu designed to breathe new life into the region’s classic recipes. Its walls are stacked with carefully chosen bottles of wine to accompany your meal, as well as jars of homemade fruit preserves. 

Highlights of the menu include roast lamb, pork cheeks with apple purée, and a delicious version of açorda—a thick bread stew typical of Alentejo—with bacalhau (cod) and poached egg. It’s the kind of food that’ll fill you up and make you feel right at home.

Restaurante Fialho

No list of the best Evora restaurants would be complete without a mention of Fialho. Open since 1945, this local institution has been run by the Fialho family for decades. It’s famous for its masterfully prepared versions of traditional recipes and its extensive wine cellar.

There’s no shortage of choices here, with a long list of appetizers, fish, and meat dishes on offer. It’s the kind of place you’ll want to go more than once, if only to try as many different things as possible. Don’t miss the dessert menu, featuring homemade “convent sweets.”

O Templo

Named after one of Evora’s most famous monuments (the Roman Temple), O Templo (R. do Escrivão da Câmara 2B, 7005-524) is a no-frills spot that serves up simple specialties, like fish dishes, migas, and many other classic plates. From the outside it may not look like much, and inside you’ll find just a few tables. But it’s the food—not the ambience—that sets it apart.

Order a platter of cured meats and cheeses to start, or go straight for the charcoal-grilled meat and fish. Signature dishes include rabbit stew and fried chicken à la avó (grandma) Mariana—the kind of recipes that only a Portuguese grandmother could truly perfect.

Evora restaurants FAQs

What food is Évora known for?

Évora is known for traditional comida alentejana: cuisine from the Alentejo region, of which it’s the capital. This includes dishes that highlight local products like bread, wine, and olive oil, plus plenty of pork, lamb, and seafood. Make sure to try açorda, a hearty bread stew.

What’s the most famous restaurant in Évora?

Of all the restaurants in Èvora, Restaurante Fialho may just be the most famous. This classic spot has been open for over 75 years, earning its reputation as one of the city’s best places for high-quality regional cuisine.

Want to try even more typical Portuguese food? Join us on a Lisbon food tour to sample the city’s best local products and classic dishes alongside a local expert!

The post 7 Evora Restaurants You Don’t Want to Skip appeared first on Devour Tours.

A Sintra day trip is one of the best excursions to enjoy near the Portuguese capital. To fully experience it, we suggest leaving Lisbon early in the morning and returning right before sunset. This will give you enough time to explore the town itself and visit multiple attractions like the Pena Palace, Quinta da Regaleira, and Moorish Castle… and of course to eat plenty of food.

Our idea of the perfect itinerary involves sightseeing in the morning, stopping for lunch at one of the best restaurants in Sintra, exploring a bit more, and then ending the afternoon with coffee and a pastry (or two). Here are our all-time favorite places to eat in this magical mountain town, from traditional tascas and iconic bakeries to modern cafés and plant-based eateries.

Restaurants in Sintra: Hidden gems and local favorites

Romaria de Baco

If you want to avoid the tourist crowds without leaving the city center, Romaria de Baco (Centro Historico, R. Gil Vicente, 2) is the perfect spot. Hidden on a side street near the Palácio Nacional de Sintra, it’s mostly frequented by locals and lucky visitors who are following a recommendation from someone in the know.

The menu offers traditional Portuguese food with a modern twist. If you’re not in the mood for a full meal, go for the petiscos tasting menu for two. And to honor Bacchus, the Roman god of wine after whom the restaurant is named, ask the staff to suggest a perfect wine pairing.

Romaria de Baco has the perfect wine pairing for you, so don’t forget to ask the staff for a recommendation. Photo credit: Matthieu Joannon

Tascantiga

Finding a casual place to eat in Sintra that’s not a blatant tourist trap can be tough—especially when it’s way past lunchtime and your stomach is speaking louder than your brain.

But then you stumble across a place like Tascantiga (Escadinhas da Fonte da Pipa, 2): no-frills, kid-friendly, plenty of vegetarian options… the kind of place that’s perfect for everyone and popular for a reason.

Here you’ll find hearty sandwiches, simple soups, and a long list of petiscos including salads, seafood, and meat and cheese boards. Kids can choose from a burger, chicken nuggets, or fish sticks, all served with fries, rice, and salad.

Nau Palatina

Located a bit outside of Sintra’s historic center, Nau Palatina is the kind of cozy, welcoming restaurant that makes you feel right at home. In our opinion, the best thing about this place is the care and creativity that clearly goes into every dish.

The menu features homemade Portuguese classics like salt cod salad and Azorean beef stew, plus unique petiscos like muxama (smoked and dried tuna) and spicy pumpkin dip. You’ll also find some great plant-based options, including spiced lentils with rice and chard stew with chickpeas.

Upscale eateries in Sintra

Incomum

When deciding where to eat in Sintra, most visitors search for restaurants close to the historic center. But if you’re already on your way back to Lisbon (or don’t mind a short walk), check out Incomum By Luís Santos—right around the corner from the train station.

Sintra was once the favorite holiday destination for Portuguese royals and aristocrats, and Incomum reflects that high-end history. Its Mediterranean fusion menu includes innovative takes on classics like bacalhau à Brás and creative combinations like duck with za’atar and scallops with passion fruit risotto. Try the signature tiramisu for dessert.

COMO

If you’re looking for something a bit fancier than the average restaurant in Sintra, book a table at COMO. This place specializes in dishes to share between two or three people—think seafood rice, tiger prawns, codfish, and steak—as well as elevated appetizers like octopus carpaccio and beef pica-pau. There’s also pasta, homemade burgers, and a kid’s menu.

The atmosphere at COMO is sleek and modern, with touches of greenery and bold colors to brighten it up. It may be somewhat of a splurge compared to the other spots on this list, but the delicious food, inviting atmosphere, outdoor terrace, and views of the Palácio Nacional make it worth every cent.

Vegetarian and vegan restaurants in Sintra

A Praça

You don’t have to be on a plant-based diet to fall in love with A Praça. This is one of the most highly praised places to eat in Sintra, located within the local market.

Through most of the week it serves a set lunch menu that changes each day, including a starter, main dish, drink, and dessert. Some dishes might include dairy or eggs, but there’s always a vegan option.

Keep in mind that A Praça has limited hours and is quite popular; plan ahead for an early lunch if your heart’s set on going here. And if at all possible, try to grab a table outside on the tiny terrace with views of Sintra’s hills in the background.

Mela Canela

Mela Canela is a relatively new restaurant, but it’s already winning over Sintra’s locals and hungry tourists alike. This small vegan café serves a rotating selection of daily dishes like lasagna, roasted seitan, tofu with tomato rice, and moqueca (a traditional Brazilian stew made with coconut milk).

You’ll also find homemade pastries and pancakes on the menu; it’s an especially good spot for Saturday brunch (though unfortunately, it’s closed on Sundays and Mondays). Try the fresh juices, specialty lattes, and the cake of the day—it never disappoints.

Casual cafés in Sintra

Café Saudade

If you’ve spent any time in Portugal, you’ve probably come across the word saudade: an untranslatable feeling akin to nostalgic longing. In the case of Café Saudade, it also refers to the vintage vibes and artistic spirit of this charming café and cultural space.

With a convenient location next to the train station, this is the perfect place to stop for a drink, a snack, or a full meal on your way into or out of Sintra.

We recommend the extra-large scones with butter and jam, the homemade lemonade, and the menu tasca: a snacking plate of bread, olives, cured cheese, and canned sardines that comes with a glass of wine.

Garagem Café

Sometimes, after hours of sightseeing, you just want something simple and comforting—like a homemade cheeseburger with fries. Garagem Café’s got you covered, serving up snacks, bagels, salads, sandwiches, burgers, and brunch favorites like eggs benedict and avocado toast, all at super affordable prices.

It’s also just on the other side of Sintra’s train station, less than 5 minutes away on foot. The menu includes vegan and gluten-free options, plus a list of add-ons so you can customize your order however you want (bacon, veggies, smoked salmon, curry mayo, and more).

Historic pastry shops

Casa Piriquita

You can’t leave Sintra without dropping into Casa Piriquita. Founded in 1862, this is the most famous pastelaria (pastry shop) in town.

It offers various Portuguese sweets, but the house specialty is the travesseiro: an oblong pastry filled with creme de ovo e amêndoa (almond and egg cream). If we could only give you one suggestion for what to eat Sintra, this would be it.

The pastry’s unique shape and soft texture match its name, which literally means “pillow.” It’s big enough to quell your late-afternoon hunger, goes great with coffee or tea, and tastes even better for breakfast the next day (that’s your hint to order a box of travesseiros to go).

Queijadas da Sapa

There are two quintessential pastries to try in Sintra; one is the travesseiro and the other is the queijada. Queijadas, are cheese-based pastries, that are popular all over Portugal, but Sintra has its own special version.

It’s similar in shape to custard tarts, but with a totally different texture and ingredients: fresh cheese, sugar, egg yolks, flour, and cinnamon baked in a crunchy crust.

You can find queijadas de Sintra everywhere, including both of the cafés listed above, but our favorite place to get them is Queijadas da Sapa, which has been in operation since 1756. Stop by the café to pair one with a coffee and grab a paper-wrapped cylinder of 6 or more for later.

Update Notice: This blog post was updated on April 11, 2025.

Coming to Sintra? Don’t miss our VIP Sintra Tour from Lisbon with Private Access to Pena Palace! No other tour offers you the chance to have Pena Palace all to yourself. 

The post Where to Eat in Sintra: 11 Delicious Restaurants appeared first on Devour Tours.

These six spots for the best brunch in Lisbon combine classic treats with some unique Portuguese twists.

At Devour Lisbon, we’re all about tradition—and we’re the first to admit that a big, hearty mid-morning meal is not among Portugal’s classic culinary customs. But we also know that the globalization of certain food trends can be a good thing… and when it comes to brunch, we’re firmly in favor.

All you have to do is get a taste of the best brunch in Lisbon at one of these spots, and you’ll see why!

The Top 6 Spots for the Best Brunch in Lisbon

Maybe you’ve just awoken after a long night partying in Bairro Alto or a late-night bar crawl. Or maybe you just want to catch up with some friends and enjoy a long, luxurious meal in the late morning sunlight.

Whatever your mood, brunch is always a good idea—so we’ve sniffed out the city’s best cafés to satisfy every craving.

1. Heim Café

Heim’s vibrant cuisine pops out against a backdrop of chic, minimalist style. Here you’ll find healthy options like quinoa patties and granola… but also the polar opposite.

The “Sunday Breakfast” includes two eggs, pancakes, bacon, sausage, tomato, fried mushrooms and beans—all for less than €9. For something sweet, go for a stack of pancakes topped with berries and coffee cream, or waffles drizzled in homemade caramel sauce.

Other great options at Heim include perusing the “toast bar” for a light snack, and sipping on a galão (Portuguese latte) or flavored lemonade. Your options are endless, and all of them are delicious.

2. Zenith – Brunch & Cocktails

If you’re in search of variety, look no further. Highlights of brunch at Zenith include beet hummus, Brazilian açaí, and peanut butter and berry croissants, just to name a few.

But the extensive menu also offers eggs and toast with every add-on imaginable; hearty salad bowls; superfood lattes and brunch-friendly cocktails.

Feeling adventurous? Try the francesinha pancake: topped with bacon, chicken, cheese, a fried egg and special sauce to imitate the legendary Portuguese sandwich.

3. The Mill

This cute café offers a unique fusion of Australian and Portuguese fare, complemented by some of the best coffee in Lisbon. Order a plate of poached eggs, avocado, sweet corn fritters and bacon, or go for a lighter treat like chia porridge, Bircher muesli or Vegemite on toast.

Everything at The Mill is made with locally sourced ingredients, and the menu includes local specialties like piri piri chicken and chouriço. Wash it down with a fresh smoothie or a Portuguese Buck’s Fizz (orange juice with a double dose of espumante).

4. Nicolau Lisboa

If you’re a fan of colorful, Instagram-friendly brunch, you’ll love Nicolau. The aesthetic here couldn’t be any cuter, with pastels, pretty patterns and tropical plants galore, and the menu features everything from tapioca crepes to protein-packed “power bowls.”

For €14, the set brunch menu includes a pancake, a yogurt bowl, fresh orange juice, coffee or tea, and toast topped with avocado or smoked salmon and cheese. You can even add a mimosa or Bellini for just €4.

Whether you want to eat clean or indulge (ahem, red velvet pancakes), you’ll leave full and happy.

5. Kafeine – Coffee & Brunch

You might say Kafeine is off the beaten (tourist) path; it’s located in the food court of a shopping mall. But once you’ve found it, you’ll never want to leave.

Despite the fact that it’s below ground level, the atmosphere is wonderfully bright and cozy. Try the eggs Benedict or a trio of shrimp tacos; a gourmet cheeseburger or an avocado croissant. Or go for the set brunch menu: toast with your choice of toppings, yogurt with granola and fruit, a pancake, and orange juice or a hot drink.

No matter what you order, just make sure to save room for what they claim is “Lisbon’s gooiest brownie”!

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6. Quase Café

To fuel up for a big day, head to Quase Café. The menu is short and sweet, but that won’t make your decision any easier. Choices range from a simple breakfast (smoothie, coffee and croissant) to what might be the biggest and best brunch in Lisbon (smoothie, hot drink, croissant, sandwich, eggs, yogurt, fruit and more) for only €13.

For a more traditional combination, go for a Portuguese-style lunch: soup, savory snacks, coffee, and water or beer. The place itself is cute and comfortable, with mismatched decor and a homey vibe.

Still hungry? Take a look at our ultimate guide to the best breakfast in Lisbon.

The post The Best Brunch in Lisbon: Our Top 6 Picks For an Epic Morning Meal appeared first on Devour Tours.

If you’ve ever been to a traditional Portuguese restaurant or eaten with a Portuguese family, you know how much this country loves seafood. It’s no wonder; much of it is coastal, with a history closely linked to maritime exploration. This is what infuses Lisbon with its seafaring spirit—and there’s perhaps no better culinary reflection of that identity than cataplana.

Cataplana takes its name from the vessel it’s cooked and served in: a clamshell-shaped container made of copper, aluminum or steel. The ingredients are placed in the bottom half, the top half is closed and sealed, it’s placed over heat and the food is left to slowly steam. Because this technique originated in the coastal Algarve region, it’s traditionally used to make fish or seafood (although it can also be used for other dishes).

The best cataplana in Lisbon reflects this coastal legacy, bringing authentic flavors from the south of Portugal straight to your plate. So where can you find this amazing dish in Portugal’s capital? Here are our top six favorite restaurants in Lisbon to eat cataplana!

Photo Credit: subherwal, Text Overlay: Devour Lisbon Food Tours

1. Aqui Há Peixe

This place’s name literally means “there’s fish here”—but not just any fish. At Aqui Há Peixe, Chef Miguel Reino sources fresh seafood from the local market each day. The cataplana de frutos do mar is made with seafood, tomatoes, onions, garlic, white wine and herbs. It’s a simple recipe that lets the ingredients shine, served in a colorful and inviting atmosphere right in the middle of the Chiado neighborhood.

2. Peixaria da Esquina

This is a beloved local spot in Campo de Ourique, fusing creativity and tradition with the best local products. Peixaria da Esquina focuses firmly on seafood, including four different varieties of cataplana featuring fish, cod, shrimp and shellfish. They claim to serve “the best fish in the world,” and while that’s an ambitious statement, it’s certainly among the best seafood in Lisbon. You may have to come back several times to try it all.

3. Cataplana do Bairro

As its name suggests, cataplana is the star of the show here. This casual neighborhood restaurant serves six different kinds of seafood cataplana, plus a vegetarian option, as well as rice dishes and other specialties. Cataplana do Bairro is the perfect place for a weekday lunch, offering a three-course menu with a drink and coffee for just €9.90. It’s proof that you don’t need to spend a lot to have an authentic experience.

4. O Arco

It doesn’t get much more classic than O Arco, a traditional seafood restaurant in Lisbon’s Baixa neighborhood. Their cataplana is legendary, brimming with shrimp, mussels, clams and more. Prices are reasonable, portions are generous and the atmosphere is super authentic, with a soundtrack of old-school blues. You can expect personal service from the owner and his son to round out an awesome experience. This place is small and popular, so try to book in advance!

5. Gambrinus

Undoubtedly one of the best seafood restaurants in Lisbon, this is the kind of place where history suffuses every bite. Since 1937, Gambrinus has been welcoming high-profile public figures, local residents and tourists alike to enjoy its traditional cuisine and elegant ambiance. The house cataplana for two is a bit pricey, but here you’re paying for more than just the food itself. Settle in and admire the sophisticated decor as you savor each spoonful.

6. Farol de Santa Luzia

Located in Bairro Alto, this charming restaurant in Lisbon serves some of the city’s best cataplana, hands down. The cataplana de peixes à Farol comes with shrimp, clams, tomatoes, onions, peppers and plenty of garlic. Farol de Santa Luzia also offers a version with pork loin, chouriço and bacon—yes, cataplana can also include meat! Both are served in beautiful copper pans, a final detail that makes each meal here truly memorable.

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Family trips present a true travel challenge. A key part of planning the perfect vacation involves choosing a family-friendly destination that everyone will enjoy. We know just the place: Lisbon, a city your kids will love just as much as you do.

If you plan to visit Lisbon with kids, we provide all the tips you need to prepare fully, minimize conflict, and keep things running smoothly. To help you do it, here are our picks of the best hotels, activities, and kid-friendly cuisine in Portugal’s capital. Whether you’re searching for the best family activities Lisbon has to offer or looking for Lisbon attractions for kids, this guide will help you plan an unforgettable vacation.

Where to stay in Lisbon with kids

First, you’ll need to find family-friendly accommodation. Choosing an area of the city to serve as your home base makes a big difference. The clearest choices are Baixa and Chiado, central districts that sit close to many main attractions, but don’t challenge you with steep hills like other neighborhoods.

You’ll find Martinhal Lisbon Chiado Family Suites, a hotel specifically designed for travelers with kids, in this area. It offers a kids club, “baby concierge” service, and suites with plenty of space. Also in Baixa, Pestana CR7 Lisboa provides a bold and colorful atmosphere where sports take center stage. Any young soccer fans will feel right at home!

Estrela, a calmer area with cool cafés and picturesque streets, also makes a great place to stay with kids. You can enjoy the Jardim da Estrela for outdoor fun. Choose from family-friendly accommodations like Hotel da Estrela or the Estrela Penthouse apartment, which features plenty of space, games, and toys for kids.

Finally, consider the Avenida de Liberdade area. You’ll stay within walking distance of the center, but escape the crowds. If you’re searching for Lisbon family hotels that offer a perfect balance of location and comfort, this area stands out as a top choice.

Insider’s Tip: Book a room at the luxurious Hotel Tivoli, which features a pool for the kids and a spa for adults.

What to do with your kids in Lisbon

Portugal’s capital bursts with fun activities for all ages. You can discover vibrant cultural sites or simply enjoy the fantastic weather. If you’re searching for things to do in Lisbon with children, consider these top activities for kids in Lisbon:

• Ride the iconic yellow trams, such as Tram 28, for a scenic and educational journey through historic neighborhoods.

• Take advantage of Lisbon’s unique transportation, including three famous elevators and the Santa Justa Lift, which let kids experience the excitement of rising above the city.

• Visit the Castelo de São Jorge where children can wander through ancient ruins, pretend to be royalty, and spot resident peacocks.

• Plan a day trip to Sintra, explore the bold Pena Palace, and let your kids roam the mysterious wells and tunnels of Quinta da Regaleira.

• Head to the Jardim Zoológico to see over 2,000 animals, ride a miniature train, enjoy the petting zoo, and stroll through botanical gardens.

• Experience the Lisbon Oceanarium, the largest indoor aquarium in Europe, located in the modern Parque das Nações, which also offers cable car rides and bike rentals.

Enjoy the sun and sand

When the weather stays nice—which is often—you should head straight to one of Lisbon’s best beaches. You can easily reach Carcavelos, Estoril, and Cascais by train from Cais do Sodré. These beaches are perfect for families, and you’ll find plenty of restaurants and easy access to everything you need.

Alternatively, cross the river to find the family-friendly Praia da Alburrica or Costa da Caparica. You can relax on the sand, enjoy a snack at a seaside café, or even sign up for a family surf lesson. When someone comes by selling bolas de Berlim (sugary cream-filled doughnuts), make sure you grab one—or several!

Discover Belém and Alcântara

You will find these two neighborhoods just beyond the center, toward Cascais. Alcântara is an up-and-coming area best known for LX Factory, an epic cultural center full of local shops and gourmet food. Since kids love books, don’t miss Ler Devagar, a breathtaking bookstore with towering shelves and ladders.

No trip to Lisbon feels complete without visiting Belém. There, you can visit the impressive Jerónimos Monastery, Torre de Belém, and Monument to the Discoveries. Plan to spend time in the tranquil parks nearby. The MAAT welcomes children with interactive exhibits on art, architecture, and technology.

Before you leave Belém, you must stop by the world-famous Pastéis de Belém pastry shop. Try Lisbon’s legendary pastéis de nata (often called pastéis de Belém)! And while you’re in the area, don’t forget to try more sweet treats.

How to Devour Lisbon with kids

Traveling with kids doesn’t prevent you from enjoying Portuguese cuisine. Lisbon offers options for all tastes, from the most adventurous to the pickiest eaters. Even in super traditional tascas, you’ll find something for everyone if you know what to request.

When you explore Lisbon’s food scene with your children, you’ll discover:

• Delicious and famous pastéis de nata alongside traditional treats like pão de Deus (a sweet bun with coconut) and pão de ló (sponge cake).

• Kid-approved desserts such as baba de camelo (a super sweet caramel pudding) and salame de chocolate, which looks like salami but tastes like chocolate cookie dough.

• Tasty savory snacks, including healthy vegetable soups, salgados (savory pastries stuffed with chicken, meat, or seafood), and the classic combo of bread with local cheese.

• Toasted sandwiches (tostas) filled with cheese, ham, tomato, and more, which you can find in almost every Portuguese café.

Where to eat when visiting Lisbon with kids

While most cafés and restaurants in Portugal happily welcome kids, certain spots stand out for families. You will have the best experience if you choose places with lots of options. Head to the Time Out Market where you’ll find an incredible selection of food, making it one of the top child-friendly restaurants Lisbon offers.

For a simpler vibe, try A Merendeira for caldo verde, pão com chouriço, and arroz doce. When you crave something cold and sweet, Nannarella serves gelato, while Quinta dos Açores offers ice cream with traditional Azorean flavors.

Other must-visit spots include Manteigaria for excellent pastéis de nata outside Belém and O Trevo for no-frills bifanas and salgados. If you want to sample both—plus much more—join us on a family-friendly food tour in Lisbon!

FAQ: Lisbon with Kids

 What are the best family activities Lisbon offers for children?

Lisbon bursts with family-friendly activities! You can explore the Lisbon Oceanarium, ride the iconic Tram 28, visit the Castelo de São Jorge, and spend time at the Lisbon Zoo. Don’t miss a stroll through Belém for its historic sites and delicious pastéis de nata.

Where can I find Lisbon attractions for kids that are both fun and educational?

The best Lisbon attractions for kids combine fun with learning. You can visit the Lisbon Oceanarium, MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology), and the Pavilhão do Conhecimento (Science Museum) for interactive exhibits. Additionally, exploring the historic trams and elevators creates a unique and memorable experience.

Are there many child-friendly restaurants Lisbon has to offer?

Absolutely! Lisbon’s welcoming atmosphere ensures many restaurants, such as the Time Out Market and A Merendeira, have diverse menus perfect for kids. Look for casual eateries and local cafés with tostas, soups, and sweet pastries that appeal to younger palates.

What are the top things to do in Lisbon with children on a short trip?

You should ride the trams, visit the Oceanarium, explore the Castelo de São Jorge, and relax on one of Lisbon’s easily accessible beaches. These highlights guarantee the whole family has a memorable experience, even on a tight schedule.

Want to see all of Lisbon’s must-see sights in one day? Join our Best of Lisbon Walking Tour with River Cruise, Jeronimos Monastery, & Alfama to explore the city alongside a local expert – and kids are welcome, too!

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When you think of tea, what country comes to mind? 

If it’s England, we don’t blame you. Not many people know that Great Britain actually owes its tea obsession to a royal of Portuguese origins. Back in the 17th century, the Portuguese had a direct trading connection with China, and were therefore the first in Europe to import and enjoy tea leaves from the Far East.

In fact, the Portuguese word for tea (chá) is borrowed directly from Cantonese (chàh). What’s more, Portugal is home to Europe’s oldest tea plantation, which is also the only one still in operation. A particularly popular local drink is chá com leite (tea with milk, honey and spices). All of this means one thing: if you’re looking for afternoon tea in Lisbon, you’re in luck!

The Top 8 Spots to Enjoy Afternoon Tea in Lisbon

Afternoon tea can mean many things, from extravagant displays of snacks and pastries to a simple cup of brewed tea leaves. Whether you’re looking for a luxurious experience or just a small treat, you’ll find it at one of our favorite cafés and tea rooms in Lisbon.

1. Empório do Chá

This is truly a tea lover’s paradise, with an extensive selection of every variety imaginable. Empório do Chá also offers various pastries, cakes and scones so you can complement your tea with something sweet. It’s located a few metro stops north of the center, but the trip is worth it for the endless options, authentic atmosphere and affordable prices.

2. Casa de Chá de Santa Isabel

It’s hard to beat the charm of this lovely café, which is still often called “As Vicentinas” after the religious order that originally ran it. In addition to wonderful afternoon tea, Santa Isabel serves great lunches and delectable homemade cakes. As if that weren’t convincing enough, all profits go to charity—so you can feel good about splurging on an extra indulgence.

3. Almada Negreiros Lounge

If you’re looking for an extravagant high tea experience, head straight to the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz. Here you’ll find the elegant Almada Negreiros Lounge, serving some of the fanciest afternoon tea in Lisbon. Choose from three options, each with a selection of savory and sugary treats; we recommend the Lisbon Afternoon Tea, which features local pastries.

4. Tease

For those who prefer a more casual and eclectic atmosphere, there’s no better place for afternoon tea than Tease (no pun intended). This adorable café is famous for its extravagant cupcakes, which perfectly complement a loose leaf infusion. Their chai latte is also among the best in Lisbon: not too sweet, with exactly the right amount of spice.

5. Confeitaria Nacional

This is the perfect place to sip some tea steeped in history. Confeitaria Nacional was founded in 1829, and the upstairs area was one of the first tea rooms in Lisbon. It’s impossible to resist their traditional treats, ranging from the classic pastéis de nata and the city’s original bolo rei (an iconic Portuguese Christmas treat) to some of the best chocolate in Lisbon.

Visit Confeitaria Nacional and other historic local spots on our Tastes & Traditions of Lisbon Food Tour!

6. Pois, Café

Located right in the heart of Alfama, Pois Café is a funky, cozy and colorful space with a touch of Austrian influence. There’s no better place to settle in and catch up with a friend or enjoy a good book over a hot cup of tea. In addition to a full food menu, they offer a rotating selection of homemade cakes and strudels served with whipped cream.

7. Hotel do Chiado 

This is one of the city’s best boutique hotels, and home to one of our favorite rooftop bars in Lisbon. But it’s also a perfect spot for afternoon tea, thanks to Paula Bollinger’s 5 O’Clock Tea menu. It consists of a delicious selection of local specialties, including coffee and Port wine in addition to tea. It’s also a great value for €18, €1 of which is donated to charity.

8. Café da Garagem

After climbing all the way up to Graça, this café below the Teatro Taborda provides a perfect reward: panoramic views accompanied by homemade food. Café da Garagem is especially nice for afternoon tea in Lisbon when it’s rainy or chilly, with incredible views even from indoors! Try the infusion of mint, ginger and lemon—either hot or iced—and a slice of chocolate cake.

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If you’ve got a sweet tooth, Portugal’s capital is the place for you. From the ubiquitous pastéis de nata to lesser-known local delicacies, Lisbon certainly isn’t lacking when it comes to dessert—or sugary breakfasts. Many popular pastries are based on egg yolks, sugar and flour…but what about chocolate?

Lisbon’s café counters may seem to be dominated by custardy confections, but the city also has plenty of high-quality chocolate if you know where to look. We’ve rounded up the top 7 cafés, shops and bakeries where you’ll find the best chocolate in Lisbon. Bom apetite!

1. Bettina & Niccolò Corallo – Artisanal Chocolate and More

This place is a true shrine to the art of artisanal sweets, and an essential stop for every chocolate addict. Bettina & Niccolò Corallo is a family-run shop in Príncipe Real that specializes in chocolate and coffee—both of which are imported from a family plantation in São Tomé and Príncipe.

Here you’ll find chocolate in its purest form (bars with 75–100 percent cacao) as well as other products that highlight the star ingredient. Try the cocoa sorbet, a fudgy brownie or the incredibly rich chocolate quente (hot chocolate)—no milk needed! You can feel good about indulging; sustainability is at the heart of the business.

2. Landeau – The World’s Best Chocolate Cake

Okay, it might not be the best in the world…but it’s certainly in the running. With two locations in Lisbon, Landeau Chocolate has earned a reputation as the ultimate spot for a decadent snack. There’s only one thing on the menu: a rich, velvety chocolate cake that’s somehow also light enough to keep you wanting more. It has several layers with slightly different textures, from silky ganache to gooey fudge, with a generous dusting of powdered cocoa on top.

Order a slice and an expertly brewed latte for the perfect morning coffee break or afternoon pick-me-up. They also serve some of the best hot chocolate in Lisbon, as well as tea, iced coffee and juices. And if you want to be everyone’s favorite party guest, pick up an entire cake to go.

3. Salamaria – Creative Takes on a Classic Confection

Ever heard of chocolate salami? If not, you don’t know what you’re missing. Salame de chocolate is a traditional Portuguese sweet made of chocolate, crushed cookies and a whole lot of sugar. It’s served in speckled slices that vaguely resemble (but taste nothing like) cured ham—hence the name. Not convinced yet? Let Salamaria change your mind.

This place specializes in upgraded versions of salame de chocolate, featuring flavors like Ferrero Rocher, red velvet and even daring infusions of carrot or pink peppercorn. If you want a truly Portuguese experience, try the one made with figs, walnuts and Port wine. Or just stick to the classic recipe; sometimes simple is better.

4. Confeitaria Nacional – Traditional Treats and Hot Chocolate

If you want to indulge in an authentic atmosphere, head to Confeitaria Nacional. Founded in 1829, this classic pastry shop and café is a local institution in the heart of the city. Here you’ll find handmade truffles, chocolate-covered cookies, elaborate cakes and some of the best hot chocolate in Lisbon.

A steaming cup of chocolate quente is a great way to start any morning; just make sure you pair it with a lighter treat to avoid sugar overload. And although you might be familiar with the Spanish tradition of hot chocolate and churros, you won’t find them here. Churros in Lisbon are more of a summer street food, although some places serve them year round!

Want to hear the history of Portugal’s iconic cafés? Join our food tour in Lisbon for more tips and local secrets!

5. Calçada do Cacau – Handmade Dairy-Free Chocolates

Located near the National Pantheon in Alfama, this artisanal shop produces chocolates by hand, without any butter or cream. Calçada do Cacau’s star products are their cubitos, little cubes of chocolate flavored with Portuguese ingredients. Think oranges from the Algarve, honey from the Alentejo, coffee from the Azores and much more.

Not only is this some of the best chocolate in Lisbon, but it’s also sustainably produced. All the ingredients are acquired from small suppliers and the cocoa beans are sourced through fair trade. You’ll also find chocolate bars, chocolate-covered nuts and, of course, delicious chocolate quente. If it’s too warm out to enjoy a hot drink, order the iced chocolate instead!

6. BrigaDoce Caffé – Brigadeiros and Beyond

Brigadeiros are traditional Brazilian sweets made of chocolate and condensed milk, in the form of small sprinkle-covered spheres. BrigaDoce Caffé takes this concept to the next level—with a Portuguese twist. Try their brigadeiros made with ginja or Madeira, or traditional ingredients like carob and sweet potato. They even have (less chocolatey) versions inspired by pastéis de nata and baba de camelo!

In addition to an infinite array of brigadeiros, you can also enjoy homemade cakes, puddings and more. If you’ve already jumped on the salame de chocolate bandwagon, you’ll be happy to know that they dream up delicious versions of brigadeiro-flavored salames, in addition to salame-flavored brigadeiros!

7. Ginginha do Carmo – Cherry Liqueur in Chocolate Cups

You can’t leave Portugal without trying ginjinha, the beloved sour cherry liqueur that you’ll find all over the country. In many places, it’s served in an edible dark chocolate cup. Just make sure you go to an authentic spot like Ginginha do Carmo, open since the 1930s, to get both the chocolate cup experience and high-quality liqueur.

The idea of drinking ginjinha out of a chocolate cup originated in Óbidos, a village north of Lisbon that’s famous for its locally made liqueur. While this might not be the most traditional way to drink it, it’s definitely delicious. And remember: always drink the ginjinha before biting into the cup, to avoid making a mess!

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Portuguese stew is much more than meat and potatoes. Learn why it’s a staple of the country’s cuisine, and where to get the best cozido in Lisbon.

There’s something about stew that never ceases to surprise me. First of all, consider the name: it simply does not sound appetizing. Ordinarily, I would never choose “stew” from a menu—why order something I could put together in one pot? 

But despite all my soup-based biases, I can’t deny that the stuff is delicious. And when it comes to the world of stews, Portuguese cozido is in a league of its own.

So what makes Portuguese stew so special? What does this iconic yet underappreciated dish have to offer? Why should you try it, and most importantly, where? If these are the questions that keep you up at night, you’re in the right place. Read on to learn everything there is to know about this classic Portuguese dish—and where to find the best cozido in Lisbon!

Photo Credit: David Stanley, Text Overlay: Devour Lisbon Food Tours

Portuguese Stew: An Origin Story

Let’s start at the beginning: what exactly does cozido mean? The word itself refers to a culinary technique. Just as “stew” can be either a verb (the action of cooking something slowly) or a noun (the result of said cooking process), cozido has multiple meanings.

As an adjective, cozido literally translates to “cooked” or “boiled.” As a noun, it refers to a combination of ingredients that have been cooked slowly over low heat. This process allows the flavors of each element to meld, and their textures to soften. Meat becomes tender and succulent; veggies turn into the most appealing kind of mush.

Portuguese stew is a hearty, rich and filling feast that’s guaranteed to satisfy even the hungriest diner. While lighter soups like caldo verde are a year-round staple on Portugal’s tables, cozido is more commonly eaten in the winter, to warm you up from within. At O Policía in Lisbon, “it’s on the menu from the beginning of October to April, but if we had it in summer it would still sell,” according to Cristina Miranda, one of the family-run restaurant’s owners.

The King of All Cozido

There are many variations of Portuguese stew, but the gold standard is the aptly named cozido à portuguesa. It’s a combination of several different kinds of meat and vegetables, stewed together and served with rice. Its preparation is fairly simple: throw everything you have into a pot and let it simmer. In fact, it was most likely invented by poor Portuguese farmers who did exactly that.

The first written recipe for cozido à portuguesa can be found in the book Arte de Cozinha by Domingos Rodrigues, originally published in 1680. Since then, it has become a symbol of national identity. Despite the fact that it’s not the most visually pleasing of dishes, eventually it achieved celebratory status; these days, it’s often made for special occasions.

According to Maura Rolo, an expert on local cuisine and co-owner of 33 Hostel, “Cozido à portuguesa is a true feast of ingredients and flavors. It’s one of the country’s most typical and beloved dishes, and a real family meal.”

Sound familiar? Cozido à portuguesa is similar in many ways to the legendary cocido madrileño that you’ll find in Madrid! 

Anatomy of a Portuguese Stew: What’s in There?

While the preparation of cozido may be simple, its ingredients list is long. Technically, any combination of slow-cooked delicacies can be called a stew, but let’s focus on the most iconic kind. Cozido à portuguesa consists of three different categories: meat, vegetables and accompaniments.

When I say meat, I mean every kind of animal product imaginable. Pork ribs, bacon, chicken, beef, various types of sausage, pig ears and trotters…even straight-up pork fat. As Maura puts it, “Some people like to add chicken or beans, but no one leaves out the delicious flavors of sausages like chouriço, linguiça, alheira or farinheira.” Trust me: it’s worth it to sample a bit of each meat, no matter how weird it might sound (or look, for that matter)!

While many might say that meat’s the main attraction, my favorite part of cozido à portuguesa is the vegetables. Usually, you’ll find some combination of cabbage, potatoes, sweet potatoes, yams, carrots, beans and leafy greens. But this stuff is far from vegetarian; it’s all cooked together with the meat, suffusing it with a rich, salty and totally irresistible flavor.

Finally, you’ll need some simple carbs to soak up all that stew. Cozido usually comes with rice, and I highly recommend asking for bread as well. Dip it directly into the broth, and use it to clean your plate till it shines. I know I said the veggies are the best part, but if you add broth-soaked bread into the equation, it’s impossible to pick a favorite.

Want to try preparing cozido for yourself? Check out this recipe to make it at home!

Cozido das Furnas: An Azorean Tradition

The first time I tried authentic Portuguese cozido was on the island of São Miguel in the Azores. Near the island’s southeast coast, there’s a town called Furnas that’s famous for its unique version of cozido. Here the dish is prepared underground, and cooked entirely by the volcanic steam of natural hot springs.

Preparing a meal underground is no novel concept. In fact, it reminds me of similar techniques that I’ve witnessed thousands of miles away, like curanto in Chiloé and cochinita pibil in Yucatán. But what makes Cozido das Furnas truly unique is how it utilizes nothing but natural heat and the liquids of the ingredients themselves—no additives necessary.

There’s a particular area in Furnas reserved for the local restaurants to prepare their cozido. You can walk around and examine the small mounds of dirt where the goods are buried, waiting to be dug up and devoured after several hours. The whole place smells like sulfur, and there are literally boiling hot springs all around you. It’s an atmosphere unlike any other, and the perfect place to pass the time while you wait for lunch to be served.

Where to Find the Best Cozido in Lisbon

Maybe you can’t make it all the way to São Miguel, but you still want to experience some authentic Portuguese stew. There are plenty of places to try it in the capital, whether you’re looking for a basic version or something more unique.

The first thing to know is that cozido is typically eaten for lunch, and is often featured as a dish of the day. This makes it a bit harder to pin down, so keep your eyes peeled for the telltale handwritten menus of Lisbon’s traditional tascas. One place that’s known to serve it, usually on Thursdays, is A Merendinha do Arco in Baixa—and for under €8 per person!

If you’re looking for the most Portuguese buffet imaginable, head to O Padeiro. Located right by the Gulbenkian Museum, this place offers all-you-can-eat cozido for €12.50 every Friday, Sunday and public holiday. The price includes drinks, coffee and dessert…if you can manage to save any room.

Unique Takes on Portuguese Stew in Lisbon

In case you’re still thinking about Cozido das Furnas, rest assured that you can have something similar to the real thing right here in Lisbon. At Espaço Açores, they prepare their own version every Friday and Sunday for lunch. It may be missing the key element of volcanic steam, but this is as close as you’ll get without buying a plane ticket.

While cozido is arguably best enjoyed at a no-frills neighborhood place—or, if you’re lucky, at someone’s grandmother’s house—a few fancier spots also make a mean version. The prestigious Olivier Avenida restaurant serves Portuguese stew every Friday afternoon, putting a signature touch on tradition. It has all the classic elements, plus additions like pumpkin, green peas and a side of rice and beans with bits of chouriço. Hope you’re hungry!

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