There are, as is the case with many popular imported goods, copycat products that claim to be balsamic vinegar but are really cheap imitations. The real thing, certified by governing bodies in the only parts of the world where authentic balsamic vinegar comes from, comes with a higher price tag. It is also considerably different, and there are many ways to learn how to identify the real deal.

Introduction to balsamic vinegar

One of the byproducts of winemaking is grape must—the sticky mass of grape stems, seeds, and skins that’s left when the juice has been pressed out. Rather than consider the must garbage, some genius of culinary history decided to try making something with it. And, boy, did that experiment deliver.

The viscous black liquid we now know as balsamic vinegar starts with must from sweet local grapes, cooked down to concentrate the sugars. It is usually Trebbiano or Lambrusco grapes, or a combination of the two.

It’s then fermented and aged for at least 12, and sometimes as many as 25 or 50 years—yes, we said years—in casks made of different kinds of wood. The casks lay on their sides, and the hole through which vinegar is poured or removed is covered lightly by a cloth rather than sealed tightly.

This allows the vinegar to evaporate slowly over time, further enhancing the flavors.

The production process

When the vinegar in the smallest cask is taken out to be bottled, some of it remains in the cask. It is then topped up with vinegar from the next smallest cask, and so on until the largest cask is ready for the newly cooked grape must.

Lying next to one another in the aging room of an acetaia (vinegar maker), diminishing in size as the vinegar gets older, the casks look a bit like matryoshka dolls.

The longer balsamic vinegar ages, the more syrupy—and costly—it gets. Balsamic that has aged 25 years is doled out by the droplet, and always as a condiment—never as a cooking vinegar.

Even 12-year balsamic can be sweet, but 25-year balsamic can be almost chocolatey. It’s surprisingly divine on vanilla ice cream or fresh strawberries.

Identifying authentic balsamic vinegar

Only two cities can produce the balsamic vinegar that bears an official European Union “DOP” seal of protection: Modena and Reggio Emilia. Each has a consortia that regulates their city’s balsamic production. Without their approval, the final product won’t get the DOP seal.

Different colored labels and caps on the bottles identify the age of the vinegar.

In Modena, white caps indicate 12-year vinegar, and gold caps are for balsamic that has aged for 25 years or more. In Reggio Emilia, red labels mean the vinegar has aged 12 years, silver labels are for 18-year vinegar, and gold labels indicate vinegar that has aged for 25 years or more.

Now, you know that you have to pay attention to both the seals and color-coding. Moreover, both consortia have taken the extra step of mandating the shape of the bottles the vinegar goes in. Even if you can’t read Italian, you can tell with a glance whether a balsamic is authentic and worth its hefty price tag.

A third consortium regulates the production of a vinegar that is much more affordable. This is because it uses less grape must, and adds colorings and flavors to achieve something close to true balsamic.

It doesn’t require years of aging, nor does it need to be in wooden casks, making it an industrially produced rather than hand-crafted vinegar. It has a lower level of regional EU protection (IGP). This makes it a far more accessible option for most home cooks.

Look for the phrase, “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena IGP,” since the bottles and labels can vary considerably.

Visiting an acetaia

Many acetaie welcome visitors, with opportunities to taste and purchase different vinegar products. Some even take guests into the loft spaces to see all the aging vinegar casks.

They tend to be cramped and humid spaces, with floors that are slightly sticky from all the evaporated vinegar. And, you will probably smell balsamic on your clothing for awhile after you leave. All of this makes the experience even more immersive and fascinating, provided you like the smell of balsamic vinegar.

The Modena consortium has a helpful map with information about visiting its 34 acetaie. You can learn a lot about balsamic vinegar by visiting their website.

The Reggio Emilia consortium’s website is also very helpful for learning more about their balsamic vinegar. Any acetaia on the list with a green “V” by their name welcomes visitors by appointment.

The post Everything You Need to Know About Modena Balsamic Vinegar appeared first on Devour Tours.

Cafés are abundant throughout France, and especially so in a city as large as Bordeaux. You likely won’t need to walk far to find a café or two (or five) where you can get a decent cup of coffee and perhaps even a snack. There are some cafés, however, where the coffee or the food or the atmosphere—or all of the above—make a longer walk worth it.

Some of the best cafés on our list are all business, focused on serving perfect coffee to discerning crowds, while others supplement the coffee menu with a variety of snacks or even full meals. Some are barely bigger than a shoebox, while others occupy multiple floors. With so many cafés to choose from throughout the city, and the criteria for what makes a café great being so subjective, we invite you to use this list as a starting point for your exciting exploration of the best cafes in Bordeaux.

7 of the Best Cafes in Bordeaux

L’Alchimiste Café Boutique

12 rue Vieille Tour

Ask just about anyone who knows Bordeaux and they’ll invariably say that L’Alchimiste is one of the city’s most popular cafés. The coffee connoisseur behind the café first opened a coffee roaster, providing his beans to restaurants and hotels around the city. The roasting location is still part café, but it’s the cozy outpost in the city center that really draws the crowds.

Bring your coffee cravings, but plan to eat elsewhere—this menu is all coffee. If you want to get even deeper into the science (or alchemy) of coffee, you can sign up for one of L’Alchimiste’s workshops. There are four to choose from, including one about creating latte art, and all workshops take place at the roastery location.

La Pelle Café

29 Rue Notre Dame

One of the owners of La Pelle hails from Brazil and spent some of his early years in the coffee industry in Italy, giving him an excellent multicultural background for opening a coffee roastery and café in France. He brings in beans from several different countries in Central America and Africa, and the roasting is done on-site.

You can have brunch or lunch at La Pelle, where the dishes have a somewhat unexpected international flair—most of the menu options incorporate flavors more traditionally found in Asian cuisine. There are also light snacks and sweets available to accompany your coffee.

Møna

20 rue Vieille Tour

This bright café takes its decorative inspiration from Scandinavia, as you might have gathered by the spelling of the name. Møna is well-known in Bordeaux for its gorgeous (and delicious) cakes and desserts made in-house, but there are great savory options for breakfast and lunch, too.

While you can get a variety of coffee drinks at Møna, it also boasts a great tea selection as well as organic juices and fresh lemonade. On Saturdays, you can enjoy a leisurely—and very filling—brunch.

Insider’s tip: No need to be intimidated when entering one of these wonderful cafés. Take a look at our guide for learning all the local lingo you’ll need to order coffee in France.

SIP Coffee Bar

69 Bis Rue des Trois-Conils

In addition to the great coffee you’d expect from a French café, SIP Coffee Bar in central Bordeaux also has a food menu with both savory and sweet items. It’s a great place to have breakfast, brunch, or lunch. Choose from crepes, granola, eggs, soups, salads, and sandwiches, and even some atypical (at least for France) snacks—like banana bread.

The coffee menu has a global feel, too—you can get a flat white or a bottled coffee, for instance—and the coffee served on any given day can come from a selection of European roasters. (They don’t roast their own at SIP.) The spacious café has two floors, with ample seating at tables and a few sofas, but you can get a coffee to go if you’re in a rush.

Café Piha

69 Rue des Ayres

The coffee at Café Piha is roasted on-site, so the air is heavy with the scent of coffee long before you raise your cup to your nose. The concept of getting coffee to go isn’t exactly unknown in France, but it’s certainly not standard. But Café Piha goes the extra mile to encourage customers to relax and linger over their brew, with seating that’s more couches than traditional café tables and chairs.

Tea drinkers aren’t forgotten at Café Piha, and there’s also a nice variety of pastries, snacks, and sweets on the menu. They have a number of coffee workshops you can sign up for, too, including one covering different roasting and processing methods.

Books & Coffee

26 rue St James

This Bordeaux café is frequently busy, since it’s located near one of the city’s main attractions: the Grosse Cloche. But it’s not just the location that draws the crowds, it’s the café itself, too. Books & Coffee roasts their coffee on-site, and the coffee menu includes things like coffee milkshakes, chai frappes, and matcha alongside the usual coffee drinks you’d expect at a French café.

The breakfast, brunch, and lunch menus are more extensive than your standard coffee shop, too. In addition to continental or savory breakfasts, there are sandwiches, salads, and a variety of rösti—fried potato pancakes more typical of the Alsace-Lorraine region of France. There’s even a “chicken waffle” on the daily brunch menu, plus a big brunch served on Sundays. The beverage options complement the food, with a selection of beer, wine, or cider besides all the coffee and tea.

KURO Espresso Bar

5 rue Mautrec 

It might be easy to miss a little café like KURO Espresso Bar, but the smell of roasting coffee helps lead you in the right direction. You can choose from the usual array of coffee drinks, plus an assortment of teas and freshly pressed fruit and vegetable juices. 

There are always baked goods available, made in-house, and the lunch menu features homemade and seasonal quiche and soups. Seating inside is fairly limited, but there are a few small outdoor tables on the patio if the weather is conducive to dining outside.

Well, now that you’ve explored the best cafes in Bordeaux, it’s time to use that charged-up energy on a fabulous walking tour of the beautiful city. Known for its historic sites as well as exceptional cuisine and world-famous wines, the Ultimate Bordeaux Food Tour, offers a seven-stop food tour of the best food and wine spots in all of Bordeaux.

The post The Ultimate Coffee Lovers Guide to the 7 Best Cafes in Bordeaux appeared first on Devour Tours.

Visitors to a sizable city like Bordeaux would be forgiven for feeling more than a little overwhelmed at the bakery options, so here’s a selection of just a few of the best boulangeries in Bordeaux.

It’s by no means comprehensive, and every local you meet will have their own personal favorites, so let this list be your starting point for your bread explorations. And if you’re compelled to do some comparison research of your own, we suspect you aren’t the first—or last—to tackle such a delicious task.

Bon appetit!

Where to find the best bakeries in Bordeaux

Au Pétrin Moissagais

There’s no place like Bourdeaux’s oldest bakery to begin a boulangerie tour of the city. The oven at Au Pétrin Moissagais (Cours de la Martinique, 72) was built in the 1760s (you can see it at the very back when you walk in), and the whole cave-like shop feels similarly old.

The recipe for their bread is historic, too, coming from a time when people bought bread every couple of weeks rather than daily. Fresh bread had to last a lot longer, so the crust was intentionally made much thicker than it would be today. Au Pétrin Moissagais still makes bread in that tradition.

La P’tite Boulangerie Notre-Dame

Opposite the Église Saint-Louis des Chartrons sits La P’tite Boulangerie Notre-Dame, a popular bakery that makes a variety of breads as well as pastries, cakes, and other sweets. You can also sit down for a light meal, with menu options like sandwiches, quiches, and crêpes.

There are a few other locations of La P’tite Boulangerie in Bordeaux, as well as a couple outside the city. The small chain began in nearby Cap Ferret.

Maison Perrin

The original location of Maison Perrin, which is now a small chain, was its Bordeaux storefront. The family-run shop was founded by a couple, one a baker and the other a pastry chef, so the menu at Maison Perrin covers a lot of ground.

In addition to a variety of beautiful breads, they also make gorgeous pastries, tarts, chocolates, and even ice cream. And there’s also a selection of sandwiches, quiches, and other items in what they call the “coin salé” (literally “salty corner”) portion of the menu.

Maison Lamour

There are two Maison Lamour locations in Bordeaux, both of which emphasize a regional and seasonal menu. Most of the ingredients that go into the baked goods are French, and many are from the region around Bordeaux.

This is another shop that makes a wide range of items spanning both the boulangerie and patisserie categories. There are pastries, chocolates, and ice cream, not to mention a wide variety of breads.

The “snack” menu includes sandwiches and wraps as well as salads, so you can enjoy a meal before you order one of their exquisite desserts. Or order a few things to go and enjoy a picnic nearby.

Bakery Art Gallery

Not so long ago, finding gluten-free bakeries in France might have seemed like a fool’s errand. Today, not only are there many bakeries that have some GF items on their menus, there are some that are completely gluten-free.

Bakery Art Gallery is the first entirely GF bakery in Bordeaux. The menu features breads, pastries, cakes, quiches, and sandwiches, and they also have a small grocery section with GF goodies to take home. And, as the name implies, Bakery Art Gallery is also an art gallery with contemporary art exhibitions.

Marché des Capucins

Big indoor food markets are a bit like catnip for traveling foodies, and Bordeaux’s enormous Marché des Capucins is no exception. It’s the city’s biggest market and one of the oldest in the country. And, while it’s worth a visit even if you don’t have a fridge to fill with groceries, it’s also a fantastic place to go for a snack or casual meal.

There are three boulangeries inside the vast Marché des Capucins where you can pick up fresh bread or pastries, but it’s the lone patisserie that earns the market a mention on this list.

Maison Seguin comes from the town of Capiteux near Bordeaux, and it’s where one of the region’s special pastries was born. The puit d’amour, or “well of love,” is a bite-sized base of choux pastry topped with a creamy meringue that’s quickly caramelized on top. The market’s outpost of the shop brings in a limited number of the puit d’amour (and they’re not even available every day), so try to get one before they’re gone.

The post The 6 Best Bakeries in Bordeaux You Need to Try appeared first on Devour Tours.

You see it in the histories of typical Tuscan dishes like ribollita, French cassoulet, and even truffles—humble beginnings with a later elevation to haute cuisine.

While this Dutch cookie may not be classified as gourmet, the story of the stroopwafel‘s ascent from a modest treat in a small Dutch town to a beloved and delectable snack enjoyed worldwide is equally fascinating—and mouthwatering.

What are stroopwafels?

The Dutch word “stroopwafel” translates to “syrup waffle.”

These delectable little snacks are absent from any typical breakfast in Amsterdam menu, as they belong to an entirely distinct category of waffle in terms of how they look and how they’d made.

While these thin waffle cookies are still piping hot, the edges are removed with a cutter to make perfectly round discs. Then, they’re carefully sliced in half and a layer of hot caramel syrup is spread on one side. The two halves are put back together, held in place by the syrup, which becomes more solid as it cools.

Stroopwafels are frequently served in the Netherlands atop a steaming mug of tea or coffee, which warms the syrup before you eat it, though they’re not traditionally dunked.

History of stroopwafels

As is the case with many foods, there are some discrepancies over the stroopwafel’s origin story.

Everyone agrees on its birthplace: Gouda, the city in the western part of the Netherlands that also gave the culinary world its famous eponymous cheese. The earliest stroopwafel recipe on record dated in 1840, though the precise date remains a mystery.

Many sources say Gerard Kamphuisen invented the stroopwafel. It’s said he was inspired to find a use for the leftover crumbs and dough scraps in his bakery, which held together (and tasted better) with the addition of syrup. The sweet and cheap treats were a hit with poor locals who couldn’t afford fancy baked goods—early on, they were even called “armenkoeken,” or “poor people’s cookies.”

Stroopwafels grew in popularity beyond Gouda through the 19th century and into the 20th, a demand that eventually required more than 100 stroopwafel bakeries in Gouda to keep up. In the early 20th century, stroopwafel production became mechanized, allowing factories to make more than individual bakeries.

Today, stroopwafels have transcended their origins in Gouda, making waves as a featured flavor in a 2019 McDonald’s McFlurry and earning a place on the United Airlines menu in 2015. You can also easily find them on the shelves of mainstream grocery stores like Walmart and Trader Joe’s in the USA.

Where to try the best stroopwafels in the Netherlands

Stroopwafels are now made globally, and those from your local grocery store may not be authentic Gouda stroopwafels. However, if you visit Gouda, you can get them directly from the source. The factories there often provide tours, and you can buy stroopwafels directly from their bakery storefronts or shops.

Kamphuisen

Rumored to be where the first stroopwafels were made more than two centuries ago. According to the bakery, Kamphuisen’s original (patented) stroopwafel recipe was sealed in an envelope in 1810 and that envelope has still never been opened. The bakery has changed hands over the years, and was fully mechanized in 2018, but they say the recipe remains the same. Kamphuisen is open for tours, which all include a sample stroopwafel.

Berg’s Bakery

Berg’s Bakery  is another Gouda institution that has made these sweet treats for a long time. They’re popular enough that, in 1989, the bakery created an offshoot business just for stroopwafels: Van Vliet. You can buy a variety of Van Vliet stroopwafel products in Berg’s Bakery (including waffles filled with chocolate & caramel, stroopwafel liqueur, and stroopwafel truffles), and you can also sign up for a workshop at Van Vliet to make your own stroopwafels!

Markus & Markus bakery

Makers of stroopwafels since the mid-1960s, Markus & Markus bakery  boasts locations in Gouda as well as nearby Waddinxveen. Each storefront has what’s known as a “Stroopwafelmuur,” or “stroopwafel wall,” which is basically a giant stroopwafel vending machine on the outside of the bakery. The one in Gouda has 286 compartments full of a vast array of stroopwafel options—including some that are gluten-free or lactose-free.

Punselie Cookie Company

Another iconic spot for these snacks, Punselie Cookie Company became famous for offering an even cheaper version of the stroopwafel, the “stroopkoekjes” (syrup cookies). A slightly modified version is still made in Gouda to this day.

Stroopwafel receipe

Though it may seem daunting, armed with a good recipe and the appropriate waffle iron, you can create delicious stroopwafels at home.

The specialty waffle iron is key. Waffle irons meant to make waffle cones work really well, as do the irons used to make pizzelle cookies, as both produce waffles that are thin enough to mimic a stroopwafel but also thick enough to slice in half for the filling.

For excellent stroopwafel recipes, check out the ones from King Arthur Baking Company or The Spruce Eats. If you lack a waffle iron, The Dutch Table‘s recipe provides an alternative using a griddle and a grill press, with a creative twist using a flower-shaped cookie cutter.

Update notice: This article was updated on August 19, 2024.

The post Stroopwafels: All About This Iconic Dutch Sweet Treat ( + Where To Try!) appeared first on Devour Tours.

Cheesemaking in what is now the Netherlands dates back to at least 80 B.C.E. (Julius Caesar actually mentions Dutch cheese in his writing), and the Netherlands is today one of the world’s top cheese producers.

There are dozens of cheese varieties in the Netherlands, and even sub-varieties (smoked Gouda, anyone?), so sample widely to find your favorites. And, if you’re visiting at the right time of year, consider a visit to one of the country’s cheese markets for a glimpse at some Dutch cheesemaking traditions.

Some of the best-known Dutch cheeses

Gouda

Arguably the most famous of all the Dutch cheeses, especially outside the Netherlands, Gouda is a cows’ milk cheese that takes its name from the city where it’s made. It can range from a semi-hard to a hard cheese with a nutty flavor that gets sweeter the longer it ages. Older Goudas also develop “cheese crystals:” white speckles in the otherwise golden cheese that are delightfully crunchy and salty pops of flavor.

Gouda is the Netherlands’s most-produced and most-exported cheese, but make sure you’re buying actual Gouda—in some places outside the Netherlands, the word “Gouda” is sometimes used on any Dutch-style cheese.

Edam

Another well-known Dutch cheese is Edam, which comes from the town in North Holland of the same name. It’s a semi-hard cows’ milk cheese typically made in an almost spherical shape. It’s slightly flattened on the top and bottom so it sits nicely without rolling, and it has a bright red wax coating.

Edam is aged anywhere from 1-10 months and, thanks to the wax rind, it doesn’t spoil—it just gets more firm with age. Younger Edam cheese is mild, and as it ages it can get sharp and quite nutty.

Beemster

Beemster cheese is, like Gouda, a semi-hard cows’ milk cheese. But, to be called Beemster, it must be milk from cows that have grazed only on the grass that grows in the Beemster Polder—a former lagoon area in North Holland that’s about 13 feet below sea level. The grazing area makes for unique-tasting milk and, therefore, cheese.

There are several varieties of Beemster cheese, aged from two months to two years, and they vary in flavor from smooth and mellow to sharp and nutty. Regardless of age, however, Beemster cheeses are known for their saltiness.

Leyden

This semi-hard cows’ milk cheese is sometimes called “spiced cheese,” because cumin and caraway are added during the cheesemaking process. The result is a pale yellow cheese with reddish-brown specks, encased in a waxy rust-colored rind.

Leyden cheese is aged between three months and two years, and the spices give it a distinct flavor among Dutch cheeses. The cheese also takes its name from the region where it originates—Leiden, in South Holland.

Limburger

If Gouda is famous, Limburger might be infamous. The semi-soft cows’ milk cheese is well-known for its singular smell (some liken it to smelly feet), which comes from the ripening method. Cheeses that are “smear-ripened” get “washed” with a solution that encourages particular bacterial growth during the aging process. This produces mold on the exterior, a flavor that can be sweet or even spicy, and a smell that’s strong and unmistakable.

And while the historic region for which the cheese is named (the Duchy of Limburg) is mostly in Belgium today, it used to include part of what is now the Netherlands—and there are Dutch cheese makers today who still make the odiferous cheese.

Age Classifications for Dutch Cheese

The aging process for any cheese can change not only its texture but its flavor—not to mention its value. When you’re shopping for cheese in the Netherlands, here are some aging terms you need to know.

• Jong means “young,” and usually means a cheese has aged 4-6 weeks
• Belegen means “ripened,” and usually means a cheese has aged 14-18 weeks
• Oud means “old,” and usually means a cheese has aged 10-14 months

These terms can also be combined—a jong belegen kaas, for instance, might have aged two months or so. And cheeses that age longer than two years are called overjarige kaas—“overaged cheese.”

Dutch Cheese Tourism

Local cheeses grace menus all over the Netherlands—but for turophiles who want to do more than just sample the country’s best cheese, there are a few cheese-centric destinations to consider. Some have even been dubbed “Dutch Cities of Cheese” by the country’s official tourism website.

Gouda

The city of Gouda, the king of Dutch cheeses, is less than an hour from Amsterdam by train with a popular cheese market as well as two cheese museums.

During the Gouda Cheese Market, cheese makers in historic costumes bring their golden wheels of cheese to the city’s Weigh House by horse-drawn carts to be weighed and priced for sale. It may look performative these days, but this is still a real market. And the cheese weighing and market in Gouda dates back roughly 300 years.

There’s a fair-like atmosphere around the Weigh House during the market, with vendors selling Gouda (naturally) as well as other local foods and crafts.  In addition, there’s a museum inside the Weigh House detailing the history of cheesemaking in Gouda. Gouda’s cheese market is on Thursday mornings from April through August.

Gouda is also home to a relatively new interactive Gouda museum, the Gouda Cheese Experience. The yellow building is even painted to look like a giant block of cheese. Visitors learn all about the production of Gouda, and cheese samples are included.

Alkmaar

The biggest cheese market in the Netherlands takes place in Alkmaar, which is less than 45 minutes by train from Amsterdam. The Alkmaar Cheese Market is certainly a tourist attraction—there are presentations in multiple languages throughout—but it also has deep historical roots. The market dates to late 16th century.

Great wheels of yellow cheese are brought to the Waagplein (which literally translates to “weighing square”) in the old town center on wooden barrows suspended between two cheese carriers in traditional costumes. They have a specific gait for the task, which helps keep the cheese from toppling to the ground. Once at the scale, the wheels are inspected and sampled before being weighed and sold.

The Alkmaar Cheese Market typically happens on Friday mornings from late March through late September, and also on Tuesday evenings in July and August (but double check these times if you plan on going).

Alkmaar is also home to the Holland Cheese Museum, which includes exhibits about the history and making of Dutch cheese. There are historic cheesemaking tools on display, as well as cheese-related art.

Insider’s tip: The Netherlands has all sorts of delicious food markets to explore. If you’re spending time in the capital, don’t miss the best food markets in Amsterdam (plus great recommendations on what to eat!).

Woerden

Woerden, located about 40 minutes by train from Amsterdam and less than 20 minutes by train from Utrecht, has what some say is the last “real” cheese market in the country. By this, they mean that Woerden’s market is commercial first, tourist attraction second. And there is a bit less of the spectacle atmosphere, though cheese makers still don traditional costumes.

Visitors can watch the cheese negotiations, which involve some shouting and clapping, and do some cheese tasting in the Cheese Shacks that pop up for the market. The Woerden Cheese Market happens every Saturday morning from early May through August. 

Edam

There’s a long cheesemaking tradition in Edam, which is about 30 minutes by bus or 40 minutes by train from Amsterdam, but the city’s modern market is more of a reenactment than an actual market. The commercial market stopped running in the early 1920s.

During Edam’s market show, bright red balls of Edam cheese are transported to the city by horse-drawn carriages or by boat (since Edam is on a lake). They’re presented to the gathered audience as well as to the weigh house for tasting and pricing. Edam’s cheese market has traditionally taken place on Wednesday mornings from late June through mid-August.

Insider’s tip: And as you explore Dutch cheese and other culinary delights, be sure not to miss out on a quintessential Dutch spirit, the Dutch Jenever. It’s a must-try!

Update notice: This article was updated on August 5, 2024.

The post Exploring Dutch Cheese: A Comprehensive Guide appeared first on Devour Tours.

Some dishes or ingredients can give us insight into a past that’s truly past. In most cases, though, eating your way around a city or country allows us to understand not only its history but also its present. Which is one of the reasons Devour’s “Dumplings, Delis, and History” food tour of New York City’s Lower East Side, a neighborhood that’s constantly evolving, is so interesting.

Why a food tour is the best way to explore the Lower East Side

Discover New York’s “melting pot” in miniature

The Lower East Side, one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods, has also historically been among its most densely populated. The area served as a gateway to New York for successive waves of immigrants starting in the late 1800s, groups that included Germans, Italians, Jews, Ukrainians, Chinese, Puerto Ricans, and Dominicans—each of whom brought their own food traditions. Today, although it more closely resembles Chinatown than the “Little Germany” of more than a century ago, the Lower East Side still has elements of each culture that has called the neighborhood home.

Sample one of NYC’s most famous dishes

Devour’s Lower East Side food tour begins in a place that hardly needs an introduction, Katz’s Delicatessen, for a sample of their famous pastrami on rye bread. There are local culinary institutions like Katz’s all over the world, places that have become tourist destinations for doing basically what they’ve always done. It would be easy to let quality slide with that kind of fame, but Katz’s retains a loyal local clientele alongside the travelers who come to snap photos of the “When Harry Met Sally” table.

With a knowledgeable tour guide, snacking on mini-pastrami sandwiches can become a history lesson. For instance, we learned the difference between a delicatessen like Katz’s and an “appetizing” shop like Russ & Daughters down the street, and why these two kinds of stores tended to be close to one another. We learned that pastrami was originally Romanian. And we learned the (strict) rules of dining at Katz’s.

Turn your fork into a time machine

There’s a bit of time travel involved in a food tour like this, as you walk from a Jewish deli opened in 1888 to a Dominican restaurant opened nearly 100 years later. El Castillo de Jagua has a wide-ranging menu (including some truly impressive-looking sandwiches), but we were there for a typical Dominican breakfast: “mangu con todo,” a plate with mashed plantains, fried eggs, salami, and a salty Dominican fried cheese that’s just as tasty as you’d imagine.

Aside from just being a great restaurant, El Castillo de Jagua represents the most recent immigrant group to get their start in the Lower East Side. Latin Americans began arriving in the years after World War II, and they gave the neighborhood one of its current nicknames—“Loisaida,” a Spanish pronunciation of “Lower East Side” as well as a nod to the Puerto Rican town of Loíza.

What Guests are Saying:

★★★★★ Excellent

Our guide, Craig, was fantastic. He was knowledgeable and friendly. By the end of the tour we felt like we were hanging out with friends. The food was delicious and there was a lot of it. We liked the local feel of the stops and the wide variety of flavors and ethnicities we experienced. There was something for all tastes. We highly recommend this tour! – Brice, USA

★★★★★ Excellent

Outstanding at every stop. Wonderful guide. Excellent history and fantastic food details. So grateful!- Donnie, USA

Learn how delicious innovations honor tradition

Between these two cultural and historical bookends, the tour includes visits to a whole-animal butcher in the Essex Market building, a vegan bodega offering unique twists on NYC favorites, a Chinese dumpling spot that’s recently gotten Insta-famous, the last pickle shop on what was once known as Pickle Alley, and an adorably twee bakery run by a former percussionist. We sampled locally cured meats, peanut butter noodles, and a meatless take on the New York staple of bagels and lox—every dish an edible representation of the neighborhood’s residents.

There are plenty of newer shops, bars, and restaurants in historic buildings throughout the Lower East Side, but some evidence of the area’s past is still there—if you know where to look (or have a guide pointing them out).

Connect to the city’s immigrant past – and present

There’s the street that was once lined with businesses connected to the garment industry. One of the few that remains, a specialty corset and lingerie shop, has been run by the same Jewish family since it opened in 1968. There are a few of the old buildings that have been converted into the fabulous Tenement Museum. Still other buildings, converted to apartments or office space decades ago, have inscriptions over the front door to indicate they were once synagogues, their congregants having long since moved to other parts of the city.

We also saw institutions that have had to evolve a great deal to accommodate changing demand. Essex Market, in its beautiful new building since 2019, was originally opened in 1940 (across the street from its current location) when Mayor La Guardia created 10 public markets around the city in order to get pushcart vendors off of increasingly busy streets and sidewalks.

The public market remains today, albeit in a new space, with vendor spaces on the main floor subsidized by the city to make them more affordable. Essex Market may be one of only a few such food markets left in the city, but it has grown (and shrunk, and grown again) with the times to adapt to shoppers’ needs.

Experience NYC’s evolving history in a neighborhood unlike any other

In neighborhoods like the Lower East Side, a food tour like this one gives us a chance to see history behaving a bit like a living language, incorporating the new while maintaining characteristics of the old. It’s Chinese paper lanterns hanging on the street near a synagogue, a vegan bodega a stone’s throw from an old-school artisan butcher, and dozens of immigrant nations represented side by side in the stalls of a reimagined historic public market.

It’s a sampler platter of some of New York City’s rich cultural and culinary diversity and an excellent introduction to the delicious living history of the Lower East Side.

“The tour was absolutely amazing! Super down to earth and passionate about his job. The food stops and facts about the city were delicious and insightful.” – Joshua, USA 

Discover the Lower East Side with a Devour Tour

Like what you read here? Experience the heart—and the flavor—of the Lower East Side, on the Lower East Side Food & History Tour by Devour Tours. This 3-hour guided walking tour is a deep dive into the neighborhood’s immigrant roots, culinary diversity, and cultural legacy.

You’ll visit iconic family-owned eateries, including a traditional Jewish deli known for its house-made pastrami, a historic pickle shop dating back generations, and a bagel bakery using time-honored recipes. Alongside these bites, you’ll sample foods from more recent immigrant communities—like Dominican snacks or Chinese dumplings—highlighting how the Lower East Side continues to evolve.

Throughout the tour, expert local guides share stories that bring the past to life—from the struggles of early Eastern European immigrants to the present-day fusion of cultures. You’ll walk past historic landmarks like Katz’s Delicatessen, Tenement Museum buildings, and Orchard Street, once a bustling hub of pushcarts and textile vendors.

The tour includes 6+ food tastings, enough to make up a hearty lunch, and provides context that turns every bite into a lesson in NYC history. With small group sizes and passionate guides, it’s more than a food tour—it’s a storytelling experience that connects you to the soul of the city.

Update notice: this article was updated on May 9, 2025.

Ready to explore this fascinating area of NYC? Book your Lower East Side Food & History Tour today for the best way to see the Lower East Side!

The post Why a Food Tour is the Best Way to See the Lower East Side appeared first on Devour Tours.

Sure, there are plenty of pizza places all over Tuscany, and there are a few pasta dishes that are considered typical in the region. Yes, Tuscan bread is its own cultural phenomenon, and is the backbone of several Tuscan staple dishes. Lucikly, eating gluten free in Florence and the rest of Tuscany is far easier than you’d expect. Just check out the many options for gluten-free Florentine restaurants, pizzerias, gelaterias, and more!

Gluten-free bakeries

Italian breakfasts are famously quick, usually consisting of a shot of espresso and a pastry eaten while standing at the coffee bar. To take part in this Italian tradition without the gluten, visit one of these gluten-free bakeries:

Bottega Artigiana del Gusto

Not only is Bottega Artigiana del Gusto (Via Erbosa 12R) a 100% GF restaurant, they also have a GF market where you can pick up goodies to bring back from your travels.

Pasticceria Gualtieri

You’ll find cakes, pies, tarts, chocolate truffles, and more at Pasticceria Gualtieri (Via Senese 18R). Oh, and they also offer coffee in case you want to pair your piece of cake with some caffè!

Pasticceria Gualtieri offers delicious baked goods, along with coffee. Photo credit: Clara Alim

Gluten-free restaurants

Florence is home to a couple of totally gluten-free restaurants, which are owned and operated by the same people:

Quinoa

Quinoa is Florence’s first GF restaurant. They also serve up plenty of vegan and vegetarian options.

L’OV

L’OV (Piazza del Carmine 4R) offers 100% gluten-free and vegetarian meals.

In addition, there are several restaurants in Florence that have been certified by the Italian Celiac Association (AiC) and have adapted their beloved traditional Tuscan fare to be gluten-free:

Trattoria da Garibardi

Trattoria da Garibardi has a separate menu for those who eat gluten free, making it very easy to see your options immediately. They serve up gluten-free local fare including Florentine steak,  ribollita, gnocchi, fried food, handmade pasta, and more.

Sgrano

Searching for traditional Tuscan sandwiches made with GF focaccia? Sgrano is your best bet! This local chain has a few locations around the city, where you can either pick up a ready-made sandwiches or sit down to full plates of pasta.

Risotteria Melotti

As the name suggests, Risotteria Melotti is the place to go for delicious ristotto. We highly recommend ordering the risotto al tartufo when it is in season.

Trattoria Cammillo

Trattoria Cammillo (Borgo S Jacopo 57R) is a lively restaurant with homestyle-type dishes. Their extensive menu offers everthing from fish to meat to pasta, making it a good option for a group dinner.

Hostaria Il Desco

Romantic and elegant, Hostaria Il Desco is the perfect date-night spot. And did we mention the kitchen is gluten free?! Some sample dishes include tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms, homemade gnocchi with pears and gorgonzola, wild boar with polenta, beef fillet with truffles, and more.

Follow up your meal at Hostaria Il Desco with a gluten-free dessert such as almond-studded cantucci. Photo credit: McPig

Gluten-free pizzerias

Pizza may not be traditionally Tuscan, but it’s ubiquitous in Italy (and, for that matter, the world). Being gluten-free doesn’t mean you can’t partake, though. These pizzerie in Florence are certified by AiC:

Ciro & Sons

The real (gluten-free) deal, Ciro & Sons is also certified by Naples’ pizza association as serving authentic Neapolitan pizza.

Pizza Man

A Florence chain with multiple locations, you are never too far from a PizzaMan.

Mister Pizza

Mister Pizza – not to be confused with PizzaMan – has two Florence locations. The build-your-own options make it easy to customize your own pizza.

Ristorante Pizzeria La Luna

Ristorante Pizzeria La Luna has plenty of gluten-free pizza options, which are clearly labeled on their menu. This spot also offers other dishes in case someone in your group prefers, say, pasta instead!

Gluten-free gelaterias

Gelato might seem like a safe gluten-free bet, but of course there are plenty of opportunities for cross-contamination between scoops and cones. These shops are either completely gluten-free or they’ve got gluten-free cones and know how to avoid cross-contamination:

Grom

Did you know that well-known gelato chain Grom is 100% gluten-free? The Florence location is centrally located just one block down from the Duomo.

Antica Gelateria Fiorentina

Antica Gelateria Fiorentina is a local spot that offers gluten-free options so that you can sample flavors safely and deliciously.

Traditional dishes in Tuscany that are gluten-free

As mentioned earlier, pasta doesn’t play a huge role in Tuscan history. Some of the quintessentially Tuscan dishes, however, do incorporate the region’s famously unsalted bread as a thickener. In other words, you’ll want to confirm with waiters that a dish is gluten-free—don’t assume because it’s a “soup” that it automatically is.

There are many traditional Tuscan dishes that are inherently gluten-free, though, including:

Bistecca alla Fiorentina

Florence’s famous steaks are seasoned minimally with salt and grilled over open flames.

Chestnut flour pasta and bread

Many Tuscan towns are well-known for growing chestnuts, some of which get ground into flour. Chestnut flour pasta is a typical dish in the town of Lucca, for instance, part of the region’s cucina povera (“peasant cooking”) heritage of making do with less.

Legumes

Tuscans have made beans and lentils an important part of their diet for centuries (people sometimes call them “the bean eaters” today), and modern Tuscan cuisine still features plenty of legumes. Note that sometimes those beans are combined with bread (as in traditional ribollita), so pay special attention to the ingredients in bean soups.

Risotto

As long as the broth used to make it is gluten-free, risotto can be an excellent gluten-free option. The dish is a staple in northern Italy, where pasta is a relatively recent addition to the diet, and Tuscany is one of the regions known for rice cultivation.

Truffles

These humble-looking lumps are prized for a reason, and when it’s truffle season in Florence you’ll find them on menus all over the city.

Italian Celiac Association and the AiC app

It may come as a surprise that eating gluten-free in Florence is getting easier and easier. There are a few things that help explain this:

• Dietary restrictions, including celiac disease, are more familiar all over the world.
• Food is central to Italian culture and social life, and Italians don’t want anyone to get left out.
• Italians are empathetic regarding digestion issues, so they understand the idea that someone can’t digest gluten well.

There’s also a government organization, the Italian Celiac Association (AiC), that helps ensure that restaurants they certify serve gluten-free dishes that are safe for celiac diners. You can look for their red and white stickers in restaurant windows, and there’s even an AiC app. You can buy a temporary version of the app for just a few dollars that’s good for two weeks (rather than paying to be a full AiC member), which lets you search for gluten-free restaurants and markets wherever you’re going in Italy.

Did you know? Our Oltrarno at Sunset: Florence Food & Wine Tour also has a gluten-free option! Simply indicate that you are gluten free when you make your booking, and we’ll take care of the rest. We hope to see you on tour!

The post Gluten Free Florence: Complete Guide to Restaurants, Dishes & a GF App appeared first on Devour Tours.

Fortunately, however, those cheap wines have largely taken a back seat to sweet wines that have been around for centuries—the original European wines that started the cheap knock-off craze. One of these is the beloved French Sauternes, among the finest sweet wines you can buy.

The special flavors of Sauternes, both sweet and bright, require careful crop management, specific weather conditions, an often-long aging process, and a uniquely beneficial fungus. When everything falls into place, the result is an exquisite wine that is the furthest thing from cloying, and worth every penny.

Terroir: that special ingredient for an unforgettable wine

Like nearly all French wines, Sauternes takes its name from the place where it’s made. Graves, the subregion of Bordeaux in which the town of Sauternes sits, is the only one in Bordeaux that is known for red, dry white, and sweet white wines.

The name “Graves” is a reference to the amount of gravel in the soil—a terrain that turns out to be great for growing certain wine grapes, particularly when the weather tends to be as damp as it is in Graves.

While Graves isn’t right on the coast, it does lie on the bank of the Garonne River, and it’s less than 50 miles (as the crow flies) to the sea. This means the subregion is classified as having a maritime climate, with conditions that fluctuate between chilly fog, frost, and sun. And, so long as the cool weather gives way to sun regularly enough, this is the perfect stage for one of the food world’s beloved fungi: noble rot.

Noble rot

It might not sound delicious, but, given the right conditions, noble rot (more technically known as Botrytis cinerea) is a type of gray fungus that can infect wine grapes. It transforms the ripe grapes into something more like raisins, lending the fruit a sweeter, more intense flavor. If the weather does not warm up in time, noble rot shifts seamlessly into “gray rot,” which ruins the grapes.

Grape varieties

Sauternes is made from Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and muscadelle grapes, either alone or blended, that have been infected by noble rot. Because this wine relies on noble rot, it’s especially at the mercy of weather conditions the growers can’t control. If it’s not a great year for noble rot, or if gray rot takes over, wine makers may scrap the entire crop and not bottle anything that year. It’s not surprising, then, that Sauternes is on the expensive side.

Sauternes history

Winemaking in France dates back to the Roman era, but it wasn’t until about the 17th century that they began producing sweeter wines. Dutch traders brought German winemaking methods to the exceptional growing climate in the Bordeaux region, and a sweet wine region was born.

Evidence suggests that noble rot was a key component of the wines produced in the area from an early point, but it was kept secret from the wine-drinking public until well into the 18th century. No doubt they feared the moldy origin story would put consumers off the product.

By the time the cat was out of its proverbial bag, however, the other highly regarded sweet wines (most notably those from Germany and Hungary) were already known to be made with grapes infected with noble rot, so learning the Sauternes secret wasn’t the scandal it might have been. And by the end of the 18th century, Sauternes was an internationally beloved wine, prized by connoisseurs around the world—including U.S. Presidents Washington and Jefferson.

Sauternes Pairing: Savory & sweet

Sauternes should be chilled when served, and while it’s certainly a dessert in and of itself, it’s also a more food-friendly wine than you might think. In fact, in its early days, it was most often served with fish during the first course of a meal.

Today, some experts suggest serving Sauternes with dessert dishes, while others say it really shines when paired with something savory. As is the case with any wine, what you “should” serve it with is really whatever tastes good to you! Here are a few ideas to get you started.

Many sweet wines (including but not limited to Sauternes) complement rich, strongly flavored savory foods—foie gras is arguably the most popular pairing, with bleu cheeses like Roquefort a close second—and Sauternes performs brilliantly with both. It holds its own against oysters and scallops, too.

A sweet wine with a high acidity level, Sauternes also works well with rich dessert dishes, like cheesecake or crème brûlée. The sweetness cuts nicely through more sour desserts like lemon or apricot tarts, as well.

Don’t overlook Sauternes for the main course, though. Depending on the vintage, it can pair nicely with both roast chicken and turkey (yes, that means Thanksgiving dinner)—and the bright sweetness is an increasingly popular choice with spicy Asian cuisine, like Thai, Indian, or Indonesian food.

The post Sauternes Wine: Why This Versatile White Wine Is a Must-Try appeared first on Devour Tours.

That colorful tale belongs only to mortadella, the pride of Bologna.

How is mortadella made?

Mortadella is a type of Italian sausage, originally a combination of finely ground cured pork with spices and small bits of pork fat. The mixture is pushed into sausage casings and then cooked, very slowly, for as long as 24 hours.

Like its meaty Italian cousin, prosciutto, mortadella is made differently in different parts of Italy with varying spices and – in some cases – meats. In Prato, for instance, mortadella is made with copious amounts of garlic, while a mountain town in the Lazio region makes a smoked version. Another Lazio area makes their mortadella with horsemeat.

The most familiar mortadella, though, especially outside Italy, is Mortadella di Bologna. It’s where the first version of the sausage was born, and it even has protected status under EU law. Only products made in designated areas and following specific recipe guidelines can add “di Bologna” to the label.

In Bologna, mortadella has been made with 100% pork for centuries. It’s typically studded with bits of black peppercorns (which have largely replaced the likely original ingredient, myrtle berries) and may also have pistachios. The additions can change a bit, but certain aspects of Mortadella di Bologna’s recipe and production are regulated by law. This includes the pork fat content, which must constitute at least 15% of the sausage to be called mortadella. When you look at a mortadella slice, you should see evenly distributed spots of white fat.

The colorful history of mortadella

Mortadella has been around for a lot longer than you might expect.

There are two Ancient Roman carvings in Bologna’s Archaeological Museum depicting pigs and a mortar and pestle, which is how mortadella was traditionally made, that make scholars think butchers were making something akin to mortadella in the Imperial Roman era. What’s more, Roman writer and philosopher, Pliny the Elder, wrote of how much Emperor Augustus loved the particular sausage he ate in Bologna. (Ties to Ancient Rome bolster one etymological theory, too, that says “mortadella” comes from the Latin word for mortar: mortarium.)

Bologna’s meaty claim to fame

Mortadella (or something like it) pops up in the late 14th century, too, in connection with a guild of meat preservers in Bologna. There’s a description of a sausage that sounds very much like the mortadella we know today, and in 1376 one version of this guild’s coat of arms supposedly featured a mortar and pestle. You can tip your hat to the original location of the guild, L’Arte dei Salaroli, marked by a plaque at Vicolo Ranocchi number 6 in Bologna’s Quadrilatero.

Mortadella’s rise to luxury status – counterfeits included!

It wasn’t until 1661, however, that mortadella recipe and production standards were outlined in writing by Cardinal Girolamo Farnese. His official notice established that in order to call it “mortadella,” it had to be made with 100% pork (no other meat) and it had to have the Salaroli guild’s seal of approval. They even made it illegal to produce “counterfeit” mortadella, with fines and torture listed as potential penalties for violators.

Once the Cardinal’s notice went into effect, the price of authentic mortadella started to climb, largely due to the copious spices used in the recipe—in some cases, it was even more costly than prosciutto. By the early 1800s, mortadella was such a luxury item it was only found on tables of the wealthy and nobility. It was only with the advent of more modern production methods that the prices dropped and mortadella as we know it today became affordable to nearly everyone.

Italian dishes with mortadella

Italians frequently include bite-sized cubes of mortadella as part of an antipasto spread or slice (extremely thinly) it for use in sandwiches. They also cook with mortadella, adding chunks to a bolognese sauce or frying small pieces to make them crispy before serving. Lambrusco wines, which also come from Emilia-Romagna, are a popular pairing with mortadella.

A Bolognese specialty is mortadella that’s been whipped with soft cheese, herbs, and spices into a mousse—spuma di Mortadella. Another regional specialty comes from the Romagna side of Emilia-Romagna and is commonly found in Bologna: a piadina with thinly sliced mortadella. Piadina is a round, flat bread (a bit like a thick, rustic tortilla) that’s usually folded in half, filled with sandwich fixings, and grilled or fried. It’s a popular snack or light lunch.

What’s the difference between bologna and mortadella?

The bologna you’ll find in many grocery stores these days may have descended from mortadella, but it’s a far cry from its origins.

History is a bit fuzzy on how we got from mortadella that’s a delicacy to the stuff we call “bologna” or “bologna sausage” today, but some credit German immigrants with bringing mortadella to the United States—it was, after all, well-known and well-loved throughout Europe by the mid-19th century. And, thanks to novel canning methods at the time, it traveled well. It came to be known by the name of mortadella’s origin city, but since producers in the US weren’t bound by EU regulations, bologna sausage became its own meat with very little relationship to its ancestor.

Mass-production techniques in early 20th-century North America made bologna (usually pronounced “baloney”) even more affordable. It was common in school children’s lunch boxes around the US, and it became an even more important staple during the Great Depression.

Pistachio-flecked mortadella is incredibly different from Oscar Meyer lunchmeat. Photo credit: Marco Verch

Bologna in pop culture

There was a long period (1967-2000) when importation of true mortadella into the United States was prohibited because of African swine fever in Italy, which helped make bologna sausage the de facto version of its Italian ancestor. There’s even a 1971 Italian film called, “La Mortadella,” in which Sofia Loren plays a woman trying to smuggle mortadella into the US.

What does mortadella taste like?

Mortadella’s flavors can vary quite a bit, depending on where it’s from, but the spices used in Mortadella di Bologna should be well-balanced with the flavor of the pork itself without dominating it. Some even call it slightly sweet.

The texture is as important to overall quality as the flavor. Mortadella should be soft and smooth, thanks to the fat content and slow method of cooking. This is sausage that could very well feel like it’s melting in your mouth.

Many locals enjoy pairing Moradella with pizza – watch this video to see how this combo works (found in section “Is pizza e mortadella the best?”)

Phony baloney?

Bologna sausage doesn’t have recipe standards like mortadella does, and may include a number of different meats. (There are even some vegetarian bologna options made with soy protein now.) It doesn’t have the silky mouthfeel that’s so beloved in mortadella, nor does it have that subtle blend of spices. What you taste in bologna sausage is mostly salt, and the texture of bologna leans a bit more toward the chewy end of the spectrum. What’s more, both the fat and spices are completely blended into the meat—you’ll find no pieces of fat, peppercorns, or pistachios in a slice of Oscar Meyer “baloney.”

Where to find real mortadella

Since the mortadella import ban was lifted, it’s relatively easy to find genuine mortadella (including Mortadella di Bologna IGP) in the deli cases of upscale US markets—which is good news, because there are still plenty of restrictions on what meat products travelers can bring into the US from Europe.

As a side note: If you’ve heard of modern EU regulations about other foodstuffs—bubbly can only be called “Champagne” if it’s from the Champagne region of France, for instance—then the Cardinal’s 17th-century notice will sound like an early precursor to the EU’s geography-based protection that Mortadella di Bologna has today: protected geographical indication, or PGI [IGP in Italian].

Join our Tastes and Traditions of Bologna Tour to try mortadella in the city where it was created! Our food tour takes you into the heart of the quintessential Italian experience and introduces you to the families making these incredible delights.

The post What is Mortadella? A Tale of Counterfeits, Pop Culture & One Delicious Snack appeared first on Devour Tours.

Unless, of course, you’re a foodie. In that case, you might make a beeline to Bologna and never leave.

Italy may be a country where food is an attraction and eating a pastime, but even among Italians, Bologna is in a class by itself. The city has several nicknames, among which a favorite is La Grassa, or The Fat One. It’s a nod to the local cuisine, known for its richness.

Dining isn’t the only reason to visit Bologna, however. There’s plenty of history, art, and culture to entertain visitors between meals, too. Here are some suggestions of what to do in Bologna.

Must-do activities in Bologna

Climb Bologna’s Two Towers, Asinelli & Garisenda

Pisa’s leaning tower is easily the most famous in Italy, but there are lots of tilted towers throughout the country. Two in Bologna are right next to one another: Le Due Torri, or the Two Towers.

The tallest, the Asinelli Tower, is about 319 feet tall (the tallest Medieval tower in the world) and the only one of the two you can climb. The Garisenda Tower is only about 157 feet tall, but it has a more pronounced lean. They date from the early 12th century and may have been built by rival families as a form of one-ups-manship.

Spend time in Piazza Maggiore

Italian cities come to life in their public squares. Bologna’s Piazza Maggiore is the city’s main square, as oversized as the basilica that overlooks it.

The square is lined with other historic buildings and monuments, but it can be argued that the main draw of the piazza is the people-watching. There are cafes in many of the ground floor spaces, with tables set up around the edges of the piazza—lovely options for a leisurely afternoon coffee.

Admire the Neptune Fountain

One corner of the Piazza Maggiore turns into a small square, the Piazza del Nettuno, so named for the statue of Neptune on the fountain at the piazza’s center. The statue, designed by Giambologna, is surrounded by statues of cherubs and dolphins that symbolize four of the world’s famous rivers. Neptune’s trident has become symbolic of Bologna itself—it’s still used in the Maserati logo.

The other statues that might catch your eye are four bare-chested women whose breasts are “lactating” fountains. These are Nereids, which represented protection and fertility in the 16th century.

Explore churches in Bologna

Marvel at the Basilica of San Petronio

Bologna’s biggest church is also one of the largest in Europe. The Basilica di San Petronio was begun in the late 14th century but never finished—the whole facade was meant to look like the finished lower level, all multi-colored marble.

Even unfinished, however, it’s an impressive structure: 433 feet long, 216 feet wide, and 147 feet tall. (The original plan to make it larger than St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City was unsurprisingly thwarted by the pope.) Look for a huge sundial on the floor in the left aisle. It was added in 1655 by astronomer Giovanni Domenico Cassini, who was then teaching at the university.

Count all seven churches at the Basilica of Santo Stefano

The name here is a bit deceptive. The Basilica di Santo Stefano is not one church, but seven, and so is also commonly called the “Sette Chiese,” or Seven Churches. The individual churches date from the 4th to the 13th centuries.

Discover Bologna off the beaten path

Hike (or take a bus) to Monte della Guardia

One of those porticoes (the longest in the world at nearly 2.5 miles) leads to the top of a nearby hill, Monte della Guardia, and the Santuario di Madonna di San Luca. The Portico San Luca trek gives you a chance to work up an appetite before dinner, and the reward at the top is an absolutely spectacular view overlooking the city—especially if you climb a little further to the Sanctuary’s roof. (And, yes, there’s a little tourist bus up the hill if you’d rather not walk.)

Peek into the centuries-old University of Bologna

Bologna is home to the world’s oldest continually operating university. Founded in 1088, the University of Bologna remains an important part of the fabric of the city—and you don’t have to enroll in order to explore its history. There’s a network of university museums (15 in all), including a collection of anatomical wax figures. The best-known attraction connected to the university, though, is its 17th-century anatomical theater in the Archiginnasio building. Medical students would have watched dissections take place on the marble slab at the center of the ornate wooden space.

Walk under the porticoes

Sidewalks are rarely attractions, but in Bologna they’re something special. Throughout the city, sidewalks are often covered with beautiful arched porticoes, many of which date from the 12th century. Bologna has more than 24 miles of porticoes in the historic center alone. Some have frescoes or other decorations inside, and some were even designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021. Just tread carefully, as marble walkways can become hazardously slippery when it rains.

Uncover hidden canals

The canals of Venice are famous, but did you know there were once canals throughout Bologna, too? Very few remain, and you have to work to find them. There’s a little window in the wall along Via Piella (you might have to open the window’s little door) with a canal view that looks like it’s a Venice postcard.

Spend time at Bologna museums

Gaze at masterpieces on the walls of the National Gallery

There are actually more than 50 museums in Bologna, but we narrowed down this guide to two! First up, the collection on display at the National Gallery of Bologna (Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna) is largely dedicated to artists from the Emilia-Romagna region, and there are also works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto, El Greco, and Giotto.

Insider’s tip: Love looking at art? Our friends at Walks of Italy have put together a complete guide on the best museums, galleries, and art-adorned churches to enjoy art in Bologna.

Roll up your sleeves at the Gelato Museum

Travelers with a sweet tooth love the ubiquity of gelato, but you can really up the ante with a visit to Carpigiani’s Gelato Museum (located in Anzola, about a half-hour from Bologna by bus). The Carpigiani company makes gelato machines that are used throughout the country, and the museum offers visitors some gelato history along with opportunities to make and taste gelato.

Insider’s Tip: If you don’t have time to go to Carpigiani, check out our top picks for the best gelaterias in central Bologna!

Best things to do in Bologna for foodies

Explore the amazing food and market scene

Things we think of as Italian staples, such as tortellini, prosciutto, balsamic vinegar, and parmigiano-reggiano, all come from the Emilia-Romagna region. Bologna specifically has given us mortadella, the (far, far superior) precursor to what we call “baloney,” and the meaty tomato sauce beloved the world over is known simply as bolognese (literally, “from Bologna.”)

You’ll see Emilia-Romagna’s and Bologna’s specialties on menus all over the city as well as in the food markets. The big indoor Mercato delle Erbe is an excellent stop, rain or shine. Market stalls spill onto sidewalks of the Quadrilatero streets, too, with all manner of produce as well as meats, cheeses, and freshly made pastas—all of which is a few steps from the Piazza Maggiore.

There are places to stop and eat in both the indoor and outdoor market areas—which is handy, because you’re bound to be peckish.

Bologna isn’t called La Grassa – “the fat one” – for nothing. Come hungry to enjoy this delicious destination. Photo credit: Ryan Ladd

Join a top-rated food tour

If you’re a foodie looking for a gastronomic adventure, our Bologna Tastes & Traditions Food Tour is a must-try experience. This four-hour walking tour takes you on a culinary journey through the streets of Bologna, where you’ll get to indulge in some of the city’s most authentic and delicious dishes.

Led by a passionate local guide, you’ll visit traditional food shops, bakeries, and markets, and sample some of the region’s famous delicacies such as Mortadella, Parmigiano Reggiano, and balsamic vinegar. The tour also offers a glimpse into Bologna’s rich history and culture, as you explore the city’s landmarks and hidden gems.

Explore the local coffee scene

If you’re a coffee enthusiast, then you’ll love Bologna. Simply put, there are tons of places to find the best coffee in Bologna. Whether you’re looking for traditional Italian coffee or something a little more creative, you’ll find it here.

Italians take their coffee seriously, and Bologna is no exception!

Top things to do near Bologna

Zoom around Motor Valley

Several of Italy’s famous luxury automobiles come from the area around Bologna. Ferrari, Lamborghini, Pagani, and Maserati all have factories a short distance from the city and from one another, as does motorcycle maker Ducati. Each has its own museum, and there’s even a test racing track behind the Ferrari factory.

Bring the whole family to FICO Eataly World

Bologna is home to a unique kind of theme park: FICO Eataly World is a theme park dedicated to food, the largest of its kind in the world. It’s located less than 4.5 miles from the city center, and there’s a free shuttle bus included in the park’s ticket price. There are some rides, but the focus is definitely on food and food production—including 13 mini-factories making things like pasta and mortadella, a sort of petting zoo of farm animals, and spaces for food demos and classes. And, of course, there are dozens of markets and restaurants to choose from.

Don’t miss out on the opportunity to discover the flavors of Bologna on our Tastes & Traditions of Bologna: Food Tour with Market Visit!  We’ll take a deep dive into Bologna’s cuisine, visiting parts of the city that are off the tourist trail and trying dishes that most visitors miss.

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