David Farley https://devourtours.com Food & Drink Tours In Europe & USA Thu, 23 Oct 2025 14:07:26 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.6.4 https://wordpress-assets-devourtours.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/devour_red_logo-footer.png David Farley https://devourtours.com 32 32 Peixinhos da horta in Lisbon: Origins & Where to Find It https://devourtours.com/blog/peixinhos-da-horta-in-lisbon/ Mon, 14 Apr 2025 13:16:09 +0000 https://devourtours.com/?p=41844 Crispy, golden, and steeped in centuries of culinary history, peixinhos da horta in Lisbon are more than just a tasty snack—they’re a bite-sized link between Portugal and Japan. Long before tempura became a Japanese staple, these humble fried green beans were fueling Portuguese sailors on their epic voyages across the globe. Ready to follow in their […]

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Crispy, golden, and steeped in centuries of culinary history, peixinhos da horta in Lisbon are more than just a tasty snack—they’re a bite-sized link between Portugal and Japan. 

Long before tempura became a Japanese staple, these humble fried green beans were fueling Portuguese sailors on their epic voyages across the globe. Ready to follow in their crispy footsteps? Let’s explore the story behind this iconic dish and where to try the best peixinhos da horta in Lisbon today.

Crispy golden peixinhos da horta next to tangy dipping sauce.
Crispy and golden: a perfect plate of peixinhos da horta in Lisbon. Photo credit: Hungry Dudes

The origins of peixinhos da horta

In August 1543, a ship bound for Ningbo, China was carrying ab0ut 100 Chinese seafarers and a few Portuguese explorers who were hitching a ride on the ship as they sailed toward Asia, intent on discovering Asian trade markets to make Portugal even more lucrative. 

  • Two of those Portuguese sailors were Francisco Zeimato and Antonio da Mota. While they were on their months-long voyage, they were probably snacking on dishes like peixinhos da horta, translated as “little fishes of the garden,” a flour-battered and fried green bean dish that sailors ate because it was preserved for a long time.
  • On the 25 of August in 1543, instead of ending up in China, the boat was blown off course by a violent storm and they found themselves instead on the island of Tanegashima. During their first encounters with the locals, Zeimato and da Mota assumed the people who greeted them on the island were Chinese.
  • They’d soon learn, though, that the locals were Japanese and they’d just discovered a new trade market. It didn’t take long for word to get back to Portugal and soon enough, there was a Portuguese trading post set up on mainland Japan. And world culinary history was about to be indelibly changed. 
Crispy fried tempura on a ceramic plate.
This humble green bean dish helped inspire Japan’s beloved tempura. Photo credit: Genri Kura

“Southern barbarians” arrive

These two “southern barbarians,” as the Japanese called them, were the first Europeans to ever step on Japanese soil. The sailors happened to arrive at an opportune time, as Japan was in the middle of a civil war and Portugal happened to have a legion of guns to trade.

They introduced the Japanese to firearms, altering the country permanently. In fact, to this day there’s an annual festival called the Tanegashima Gun Festival that celebrates this momentous occasion.

The Portuguese ended up staying a while—96 years, to be exact. It turns out, the one thing the Japanese didn’t want from the Portuguese was their religion, so the ruling shogun, Takugawa Iemtsu, banished the Portuguese from Japan for doggedly proselytizing Christianity to the locals.

Crispy golden fried green beans.
Once sailor food, now a beloved appetizer across Portugal. Photo credit: Hungry Dudes

Portuguese exit but without one important thing

After nearly a century of influence on the Island, the Portuguese left a few cultural relics behind in Japan—in addition to guns, there was tobacco, wool, and soap. But there was one other thing that has changed Japan’s culinary history ever since: the recipe for that Portuguese fried green bean dish called peixinhos da horta that Portuguese sailors often snacked on while at sea.

  • After the Portuguese sailed away for good, the Japanese took the recipe and altered it, using the batter to coat many other vegetables and meats. The Portuguese had referred to this cooking technique as tempora, a Latin word referencing the fasting times during Lent. The Japanese of course, called it tempura and the cuisine of this island nation would never be the same.
  • As you might have guessed, the origins of tempura, in general, and peixinhos da horta, in particular, are rooted in religious observations. The Portuguese would eat these “little fishes from the garden” during Lent when meat was strictly verboten. Sailors often traveled with peixinhos da horta because they preserved for a long time during sea journeys.
  • Today, of course, you can find tempura anywhere in Japan and at most Japanese restaurants around the world. And if you’re in Portugal, peixinhos da horta is a fairly common item on restaurant menus. Order some and bite into the crispy fried green bean knowing that you’re taking a bite into culinary history.
People eating petiscos in Portugal.
Peixinhos da horta are the perfect petisco.

Where in Lisbon to try peixinhos da horta

If you are looking for where to eat while in Lisbon and want to take a bite of crispy peixinhos da horta, here are four places to try. 

People at a restaurant in Portugal cheering wine glasses and drinking Portuguese beers.
Peixinhos da horta pairs great with a glass of white wine.

Tascardoso

For over three decades Tascardoso has been frying up excellent peixinhos da horta on a small street just off Praca do Principe Real.

group of people toasting with small glasses
Lisbon is full of bites you have to try.

Coelho da Rocha

Set in Campo de Ourique, Coelho da Rocha is a meat-lovers paradise but also does one of the city’s best versions of peixinhos da horta. 

Who knew garden veggies could have such a wild past?

Pateo do Patisco

With a few locations sprinkled around Lisbon, Pateo do Patisco has a menu of classic Portuguese snacks, including little fishes from the garden.

People eating at restaurants in Sintra at a table with ceramic plates and glasses of wine.
Peixinhos da horta are the perfect bite for sharing.

Tapa Bucho

Serving up small plates in the Bairro Alto, Tapa Bucho is a perfect place to snack on peixinhos da horta and other Iberian delights.

group of people walking down stairs in cityscape
Are you ready to explore the culinary history of Portugal?

Want to taste more of Portugal’s culinary history—beyond just peixinhos da horta in Lisbon? Join us on our Ultimate Lisbon Food & History Tour of Baixa & Chiado to uncover the flavors that define the city. From sipping cherry liqueur in a 130-year-old shop to tasting the best pork sandwich in town and discovering Portugal’s love affair with canned fish, this immersive tour takes you deep into the heart of Lisbon’s food culture. And yes—you’ll end on a sweet note with one of the best pastéis de nata in the city.

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The 8 Best Vegan Restaurants in London You Need to Try https://devourtours.com/blog/best-vegan-restaurants-in-london/ Wed, 09 Apr 2025 18:20:10 +0000 https://devourtours.com/?p=41807 Few cities can boast the number of quality plant-free restaurants than London. In fact, no city can, if you’re to believe the accolade a few years ago that the UK capital topped the list of the most vegan-friendly city on the planet with more than 400 vegan eateries within the city limits.Best of all, the […]

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Few cities can boast the number of quality plant-free restaurants than London. In fact, no city can, if you’re to believe the accolade a few years ago that the UK capital topped the list of the most vegan-friendly city on the planet with more than 400 vegan eateries within the city limits.

Best of all, the quality level is noteworthy, as fine dining establishments have even gotten in on the meat-free act. Keep reading to discover our picks for the best vegan restaurants in London.

Two women eating some of the best vegan food in London.
The best vegan restaurants in London are anything but boring.

Where to find the best vegan restaurants in London

Temple of Seitan

With locations in Camden and Hackney, Temple of Seitan should make any “best vegan restaurants in London” list simply on the name alone. It doesn’t hurt, though, that this seitan-friendly eatery is also excellent. And it has a cult following to show.

They make excellent vegan versions of Nashville crispy and hot chicken sandwiches, chicken wings, and wraps stuffed with fresh veggies, and—wait for it—chicken. It’s so good, you’ll soon be hailing seitan too.

Insider tip: Temple of Seitan is also made our list of the best vegan burgers in London.

An array of vegan food in London.
Who needs meat when the vegan ‘chicken’ is this crispy? Photo credit: Lablascovegmenu

Gauthier

In 2019, acclaimed chef Alexis Gauthier announced his eponymous restaurant was going fully vegan and it got the attention of the dining public and food media. Gauthier, the restaurant and the chef, has been quickly changing minds and taste buds about the limits of vegan cuisine.

The Soho restaurant serves up two different tasting menus, a 5-course and a longer 8-course feast of refined, French-accented meat-free fare. 

People at a restaurant cheering wine glasses with red and white wine .
Fine dining, no meat required. Gauthier proves that French cuisine can be 100% plant-based and still blow your mind.

Unity Diner

A Spitfields favorite for herbivores (and the people who love them), Unity Diner has mastered faking meat. They serve delicious and realistic versions of burgers, fish and chips, meatballs, prawn tempura, and even steaks.

Bonus: Unity has an inventive cocktail program, mixing up a handful of signature drinks and classic libations.

Man holding a wooden board with 4 hamburgers
Look no further to discover the best vegan burgers in London! Photo credit: Davey Gravy

Plates London

After chef Kirk Haworth was diagnosed with Lyme disease in 2016, he went fully vegan. And so did his Shoreditch restaurant, Plates London.

Some of the tasting-menu highlights include barbecued maitake mushroom wading in a mole sauce, slow-cooked leeks doused in a chestnut cream, and rice pudding ice cream sprinkled with mulberries.

A tasting plate from London Plates vegan restaurant.
Who said vegan can’t be indulgent? Photo credit: Haydn Blackey

Purezza 

Sustainable vegan pizza? That’s right. Get yourself to Camden.

The sourdough-based Neapolitan-style pizzas at Purezza are topped with vegan mozzarella and parmigiano and sprinkled liberally with flavor-popping ingredients black truffles, fresh tomatoes, and butternut squash.

The restaurant only uses ingredients from sustainable farms and sources and finds a way to use all of the product, instead of tossing some bits in the rubbish.

A woman picking a slice of pizza from her plate.
Dreaming of dairy-free pizza? In London you can have it all.

Naīfs

The affordable set menu at Naīfs, a neighborhood bistro in Peckham, leans into Greek cuisine (though not exclusively) and serves dishes family style—they’re meant to be shared.

Some of the palate-popping dishes include grilled zucchini accented with hummus and fried cauliflower with smoked chilies.

A group of restaurant patrons sharing Greek food together.
Greek food is meant to be shared family style.

Itadaki Zen

Located a short stroll from the King’s Cross tube station, Itadaki Zen claims to be the first fully vegan Japanese restaurants in Europe.

Carnivores will certainly not miss meat here. Cucumber and kimchi salad, hearty curry-laced ramen, and ample amounts of grease-less tempura, make this affordable izakaya-like restaurant the place to point yourself for a meat-free meal in London.

dark ramen in white bowl
Ramen, sushi, and tempura—all vegan and all delicious. Photo credit: Matthew Mendoza

Holy Carrot 

Starting life as a pop-up in Kensington, Holy Carrot planted its roots on Portobello Road in Notting Hill in 2024. And London’s plant-based dining lovers are leaping with joy.

Open-flame cooking is the restaurant’s forte, so expect a lot of grilled veggies, such as coal-roasted leeks and smoked beetroot, but also sweet potato hummus and a hearty mushroom-and-tofu hotpot.

Asparagus on a ceramic plate at London Plate, one of the best vegan restaurants in London.
Whether you’re plant-curious or plant-committed, these dishes will make you vegan. Photo credit: Edward Howell

FAQ: Best vegan restaurants in London

Are vegan restaurants in London expensive?

London offers a wide range of vegan dining options for every budget. You can find affordable vegan cafes and food markets alongside mid-range and high-end dining experiences.

There are also Michelin-starred restaurants with sleek interiors and menus that can easily convert a carnivore into an herbivore in one forkful of vegan fare.

A dessert wine and a dessert at a restaurant.
No matter where you decide to go, these vegan restaurants in London are the best.

 

Do I need to book in advance for vegan restaurants in London?

While some vegan restaurants accept walk-ins, popular spots can get busy, especially during weekends or dinner hours. For highly rated restaurants or fine dining establishments, it’s a good idea to book a table in advance.

A group of people eating at a restaurant in London.
Vegan food in London is a crowd-pleaser.

Are there gluten-free options available at vegan restaurants?

Yes, many vegan restaurants in London cater to other dietary preferences, including gluten-free. Be sure to check the menu online or contact the restaurant to confirm specific options.

A group of people dining at a restaurant in London.
London’s vegan scene is next level.

What areas of London are best for vegan food?

Central London neighborhoods like Soho, Shoreditch, Camden, and Hackney are hotspots for vegan dining, offering a mix of trendy cafes, street food markets, and high-end restaurants.

However, you’ll find great vegan options throughout the city.

People eating at a food market in London.
In London you’re never too far away from good vegan food.

Do London pubs have vegan options?

Many pubs in London now offer vegan dishes on their menus, ranging from classic British fare like vegan pies and Sunday roasts to plant-based burgers.

Gastropubs are especially good for vegan options. You can even find vegan fish and chips, shepherd’s pie, and full English breakfasts.

A group of women drinking beer at a London pub.
Vegan food pairs perfectly with a pint of beer.

What makes vegan cafes different from traditional cafes?

Vegan cafes stand out for their innovation, offering creative plant-based dishes and drinks you might not find in traditional cafes. Vegan cafes in London are often big on sustainability, with zero-waste initiatives and eco-friendly packaging.

Along with hip décor, they usually serve innovative dishes like jackfruit tacos, aquafaba lattes, and plant-based pastries. With an emphasis on inclusivity, vegan cafes are a great option for those with various dietary preferences.

A woman drinking coffee at a cafe.
Vegan cafes in London are innovative.

Are there vegan afternoon teas in London?

Yes, vegan afternoon tea experiences are available at several venues in London. At vegan afternoon tea, you’ll find plant-based takes on classic British treats like scones, quiches, and tarts.

Rest assured that the layers in the pastries and finger sandwiches are filled with their vegan counterparts. Dairy-free clotted cream and plant-based Victoria sponge, anyone?

silver trays with pastries
All across different venues in London you’ll find elegant dining rooms that offer pristine afternoon tea. Photo credit: Jelleke Vanooteghem

Are there vegan-friendly food markets in London?

Yes, food markets like Borough Market, Camden Market, and Spitalfields Market feature a variety of veggie-friendly stalls offering fresh, delicious, and unique vegan options.

People enjoying the Borough Market in London.
London’s markets offer plenty of unique vegan options.

Now that you’ve filled up on delicious vegan food are you ready to get to know London? From royal landmarks to river views and historic towers, our unforgettable London in a Day Tour shows you London like no one else can—on foot, by boat, and from above. With expert guides, skip-the-line entry, and stories that bring the city to life, this is the ultimate way to explore the capital.

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How the Bikini Sandwich in Barcelona Became a Culinary Staple https://devourtours.com/blog/bikini-sandwich-in-barcelona/ Tue, 08 Apr 2025 10:28:03 +0000 https://devourtours.com/?p=41782 There is evidence to suggest that the bikini has been around for a few millennia. Even the Romans embraced it. But, of course, the bikini in question here is the women’s bathing suit.But if you’re more interested in sandwiches than swimming, the origins of the bikini—that is, the tasty sandwich found in and around Barcelona—we […]

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There is evidence to suggest that the bikini has been around for a few millennia. Even the Romans embraced it. But, of course, the bikini in question here is the women’s bathing suit.

But if you’re more interested in sandwiches than swimming, the origins of the bikini—that is, the tasty sandwich found in and around Barcelona—we have to only go back a handful of decades.

A group of people waiting to order at a bar in Barcelona.
The best bikini sandwiches in Barcelona await!

What is a bikini?

But first, what exactly is a bikini—the sandwich, not the swimsuit? It is a pressed and toasted sandwich, usually stuffed with ham and cheese between two slices of bread. It sounds simple—and it is—but it’s also very delicious.

If you have traveled and eaten in France, and this all sounds a bit familiar, then you won’t be surprised by the origins of the bikini sandwich in Barcelona. 

Two slices of a ham and cheese sandwich on a ceramic plate.
Taste why the bikini sandwich has been a local favorite for over 70 years. Photo credit: Jessica Spengler

Where does the bikini come from?

Let’s go back to 1953. That’s when Belgian restaurateur Jean Paul Heinz opened up a nightclub in Barcelona called La Sala Bikini—essentially the Bikini Room. Heinz loved the French sandwich croque monsieur—a pressed and toasted sandwich that is stuffed with French jambon (or ham)  and Gruyere cheese and drizzled with mornay sauce.

The rub, though, is that this is 1950s Spain and a guy named Francisco Franco was running the place with an iron first. The dictator, who would rule Spain until his death in 1975, had a very strict policy that languages other than Spanish were prohibited to be used. That even meant menu items.

So, Heinz decided to just call it the “bocadillo de la casa,” or “house sandwich” instead of what it really was: a Gallic sandwich called croque monsieur.  The menu item quickly became a big hit. Word spread and people started coming to the club just to try the sandwich. Eventually, people started referring to it as the “bikini bocadillo” and eventually just “bikini.”

And the bikini was born!

Two cheesy slices of a croque monsieur on a wooden plate.
The croque monsieur inspired what we know today as the bikini sandwich.

Where to eat a bikini sandwich in Barcelona?

These days one can find a bikini at various bars and restaurants all over Barcelona and Catalonia.

Since its founding, the sandwich has taken on a more Spanish accent, ditching the French ham for jamon Serrano or jamon Iberico and replacing the Gruyere cheese with Manchego.

A close up of a bikini sandwich in Barcelona.
This isn’t just a sandwich—it’s a Catalan culinary upgrade. Photo credit: Chris Cooper

La Sala Bikini

Over 70 years after it first flicked on its lights, La Sala Bikini is still around and hosting bands for live music and DJs to spin tunes.

The club is more popular today for its entertainment value than its culinary legend.

A bikini sandwich with cheese and jamon inside.
The bikini isn’t your average ham and cheese sandwich. Photo credit: Griffin Wooldridge

Taps 24

One of the most lauded versions of the bikini is at Tapas 24. Even Catalonia-raised superchef Jose Andres is a fan. Tapas 24 chef Carles Abellon’s version takes San Simon cheese, jamon Iberico, and a sprinkling of black truffles and presses it to perfection.

Chef Abellon’s haute version came about when he was working at ElBulli, the extremely lauded restaurant from chef Fernan Adria in northern Catalonia.

A toasted sandwich on a ceramic plate.
Barcelona’s bikini sandwich is perfectly crispy on the outside and filled with ham and cheese. Photo credit: MikeGz

Gresca

At Gresca in Barcelona, chef Rafa Peña makes a bikini for his loyal followers who devour his take on the classic bocadillo.

Peña’s version has jamon Iberico and comté cheese and it’s addictive.

A ceramic plate with jamon piled on top.
Jamón is delicious, but even better on a bikini sandwich.

Bar Pietro

In the Gràcia neighborhood, Bar Pietro takes the bikini to new heights, offering versions of the sandwich with zucchini, brie, and ham, as well as a version with brie and honey. 

Some of the best bikini sandwiches in Barcelona can be found in unexpected places.

La Bikineria

And, of course, there are places in Barcelona that are solely dedicated to the bikini. One such spot is La Bikineria, which has a few locations sprinkled around the Catalan metropolis.

Here you can get versions of the bikini that have bacon, pastrami, bologna/mortadella, roast chicken, and sobrasada, paired with cheeses gouda, cheddar, and Manchego. And bikini purists have no fear: the restaurant also offers a classic version too. 

people cheers with vermouth in a bar
Pair this toasted classic with a glass of vermouth.

Want to taste the history behind Barcelona’s most iconic bites? Join us on our Barcelona Tapas Tour through the Gothic Quarter and discover how local food and centuries of history are deliciously intertwined. From century-old bars to timeless tapas, this tour uncovers the stories behind every bite!

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Coda alla Vaccinara: Rome’s Iconic Braised Oxtail & Where to Try It https://devourtours.com/blog/coda-alla-vaccinara/ Tue, 11 Mar 2025 16:29:28 +0000 https://devourtours.com/?p=41324 In the 1976 Italian film, “Down and Dirty,” Giacinto Mazzatella—played by actor Nino Manfredi—remarks, “Oxtail and celery are like man and woman: it’s all well when one sticks to the other.”Oxtail, or as you’ll see it on menus in Rome, coda alla vaccinara, is in the culinary pantheon of Roman cuisine. And if you’re in […]

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In the 1976 Italian film, “Down and Dirty,” Giacinto Mazzatella—played by actor Nino Manfredi—remarks, “Oxtail and celery are like man and woman: it’s all well when one sticks to the other.”

Oxtail, or as you’ll see it on menus in Rome, coda alla vaccinara, is in the culinary pantheon of Roman cuisine. And if you’re in Rome, you have to try it at least once, if not twice. 

A group of people eating at a restaurant in Rome.
Coda alla vaccinara is slow-braised to perfection.

What is coda alla vaccinara?

The tail of the ox is a tender piece of beef. In Rome, they prepare it by simmering the tail with a large amount of celery, carrots, herbs, red wine, and tomatoes; sauteed with pancetta, garlic, and onions; and then slowly  braised with more celery, cloves, and bay leaves. The last step is adding a pinch of cinnamon, black pepper, and nutmeg. Sometimes raisins are added to create a sweet and sour balance to the taste.

The result is a rich, flavor-popping meal with fall-off-the-bone tender meat. Sometimes, Roman chefs de-bone the tender oxtail meat and turn it into a pasta dish called rigatoni al sugo de coda. 

Coda alla Vaccinara polenta.
With so many ways to eat oxtail, which will you choose to try first? Photo credit: jeffreyw

Where does coda alla vaccinara originate?

The dish is deeply associated with Regola, a sliver of a neighborhood in Rome’s Centro Storico between the Tiber River and Campo de’ Fiore. It’s particularly connected to the butchers (or vaccinari in the local parlance) of Regola. The association is so deep that Romans would often refer to people from Regola as “magnacode,” a word in Roman dialect that means “tail eater.”

The other part of Rome that is tied to coda alla vaccinara is Testaccio. It is here where the dish solidified its status as one of the stars of Roman cuisine. Testaccio, located south of the city’s historical center and hugging up against the Tiber, is famed for a few reasons, all of which are related to animals and food in some way:

  • One of those is for Monte Testaccio. This 120-foot urban mountain is made up of broken pottery, deposited here from Rome’s port. It exemplifies the city’s love of olive oil. It was there that clay amphorae containing olive oil would arrive from the port. Workers would deposit the oil on other containers and then smash the amphorae, tossing the shards on what would become Testaccio Hill. Today, Monte Testaccio is made up of 53 million clay amphorae. 
  • In the Middle Ages, Testaccio was home to the city’s carnival celebrations, part of which included rolling pigs and cows (and sometimes, the city’s Jewish residents) down the hill in a cart.
  • The other legendary site in the neighborhood is the now-defunct slaughterhouse. Opened in the last decade of the 19th century, the mattatoio, or slaughterhouse, was the main meat producing center in Rome. Workers were paid a combination of money and meat. But not just any meat. They were given what is called the quinto quarto, or the 5th quarter—essentially the parts of the beast that consumers rarely eat and butchers rarely sell.
  • These parts, also called offal, included the intestines, heart, brains, testicles, and—wait for it—the tail. Because refrigeration was not dependable in those days, restaurants sprang up across the street from the slaughterhouse, many of them anchored into the base of Monte Testaccio, to cook the quinto quarto meat for the slaughterhouse workers after they were finished with their shifts.

And with that, Roman cuisine and its obsession with offal, was born. Dishes like pajata (calves’ intestines with the mother’s milk still inside), coratella (an offal-laden lamb stew), trippa alla romana (tripe cooked in a tomato sauce), and, of course coda alla vaccinara became Roman classics.

A butcher in Rome slicing coda alla vaccinara.
Butchers in Rome take pride in providing high quality oxtail.

Where to eat coda alla vaccinara in Rome?

The slaughterhouse permanently shuttered in 1975, but many of those restaurants that sprang up in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, are still around and still serving traditional Roman food, including coda alla Vaccinara.

A group of people outside of a food market in Rome.
Rome is full of historic restaurants where you can try coda alla vaccinara.

Checchino dal 1887

This ancient eatery was one of the first restaurants to fire up its pasta-boiling burners next to the slaughterhouse in Testaccio. Quinto quarto dishes are their speciality, particularly coda alla vaccinara.

Here you can get rigatoni with a tomato-laden oxtail sauce and coda alla vaccinara: slow-cooked oxtail in a sauce of celery, pine nuts, raisins, and bitter dark chocolate.

Rigatoni with coda alla vaccinara in Rome.
Rigatoni with coda alla vaccinara is a must-try in Rome.

Ristorange Jole

Located around the corner from Checchino in Testaccio is Jole, which does more modern takes on Roman classics.

Case in point: the fan-favorite dish ravioli de Jole is oxtail-stuffed ravioli. It’s a fantastic dish on the coda alla vaccinara trail.

Three ravioli beside a fork on a white plate
Oxtail-stuffed ravioli is a modern twist on coda alla vaccinara.

Santo Palato

Chef Sarah Cicolini’s Santa Palato is not an easy restaurant to nab a table at. The menu changes regularly but if her oxtail meatballs are on the menu, order them immediately.

The polpette di coda alla vaccinara include lovage, cacao, and a peanut dipping sauce.

Overhead shot of meatballs and two metal spoons in a reddish-brown oval dish.
Oxtail meatballs. Need we say more?

Want to learn more about the neighborhood that’s closely tied to coda alla vaccinara? Join us on our Tastes & Traditions of Rome: Testaccio Food and Market Tour. From sipping the perfect espresso to indulging in Rome’s most iconic dishes, you’ll taste your way through local markets, family-run trattorias, and historic landmarks that define Roman cuisine. 

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The Ultimate Guide to Exploring the Roman Ruins in Merida https://devourtours.com/blog/roman-ruins-in-merida/ Tue, 22 Oct 2024 16:06:16 +0000 http://98.84.112.179/?p=40127 The city formerly known as Augusta Emerita was founded in 25 B.C. by—wait for it—Roman Emperor Augustus. The name “Emerita,” is derived from the Latin word for “retired” because it was here where many Roman soldiers came to live out their post-working days. Augusta Emerita was one of the most important cities in all of […]

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The city formerly known as Augusta Emerita was founded in 25 B.C. by—wait for it—Roman Emperor Augustus. The name “Emerita,” is derived from the Latin word for “retired” because it was here where many Roman soldiers came to live out their post-working days. Augusta Emerita was one of the most important cities in all of Roman Hispania. Today, Merida—derived from “Emerita”—is a thriving city of 60,000 denizens in Extremadura in western Spain. 

But best of all, the Roman ruins of Merida are the best, largest, and most preserved collections of Roman artifacts in all of Iberia. So much so that it is even under the protection of UNESCO. If you’re in Extremadura or are aiming to gravitate there, put Merida on you itinerary. Particularly if you’re a fan of Roman architecture, prepare yourself to be wowed by the jaw-dropping 2,000-year old ruins of Merida. 

Merida doesn’t get much attention outside of Spain, but the city’s collection of Roman ruins is one of the world’s most impressive. Photo credit: Xauxa

Roman Bridge

Start your tour of Roman ruins in Merida by taking a stroll across the Puente Romano, or Roman Bridge. At 755 meters, or almost 2,500 feet, this stone span over the Guadiana River, is the longest Roman Bridge in the world. It’s hard to believe now, but there was a time when automobile traffic was allowed to drive across the bridge. In 1991, it was fully pedestrianized. On one side of the bridge is the Alcazaba de Merida, a Moorish fortification built in the ninth century during the Arab occupation. 

Your opportunity to walk in the footsteps of Roman soldiers. Photo credit: Fernando

Roman Forum

The Forum of Merida isn’t as big as that of Rome—much of it was sadly paved over in the centuries that followed the fall of the Roman Empire—but it is still impressive. Don’t miss the Temple of Mars, the Arch of Trajan, and the porticos, dating from the first century, A.D. where you can see several niches that once held statues of the gods. There are several remnants, including statues, from the Forum that are today housed in the National Museum of Roman Art

Visitors on their way to visit the Roman forum are greeted by the majestic arch. Photo credit: Yuntero

Temple of Diana

Definitely one of the most impressive Roman ruins in Merida, the majestic Temple of Diana is simply spectacular. With most of its columns still standing, the rectangular temple was built during the time of Augustus. One reason why it’s so well preserved today is because for centuries it was the foundation and shell of a Renaissance-era palace—home of the Count of Los Corbos.  

The Temple of Diana is one of most impressive Roman ruins in Merida. It really is incredible to see it up close. Photo credit: Tony Fernandez

Circus Maximus

Roman history lovers are well aware of the plus-sized Circus Maximus in Rome, but Merida has an impressive one as well. This oblong-shaped arena is 1,300 feet long and about 100 feet wide. 

The structure took about 30 years to complete and was finished around the year 10 A.D. At the time, it was set outside of the city walls and on the road stretching between Toledo and Cordoba. Unlike the Circus Maximus in Rome, the Merida version is still quite impressively preserved. Don’t miss the museum dedicated to the structure on the circus grounds. 

It’s believed that Merida’s Circus Maximus could hold up to thirty thousand spectators. Photo credit: Carole Raddato

Aqueduct of the Miracles

There is only a sliver of the Acueducto de los Milagros, or the Aqueduct of Miracles, remaining but it still manages to be majestic. The arcade of 38 arched pillars rise about 80 feet high and stretch for about 2,700 feet—two millennia ago, the aqueduct was three miles long, going all the way to the Cornalvo reservoir. The aqueduct was apparently giving the name “Miracles” because of the awe in which the grand structure once inspired. 

The engineering behind the aqueduct design is simply mind-blowing. Photo credit: Doalex

Roman Amphitheater

The partially preserved Roman amphitheater of Merida was finished in 8 B.C. and was used as a venue for gladiator fights as well as duels to the death between man and beast, as well as beast versus beast. Back in the day, it could hold 15,000 people. 

Where gladiators became legends. Photo credit: Daniel Di Palma

Roman Theater

Perhaps the most impressive of the Roman ruins in Merida is the Roman theater. Built in 16 B.C., the theater is still home to plays and performances throughout the year. During the theater’s peak, it could hold as many as 6,000 spectators. Interestingly, until the late-19th century, only parts of the theater were visible, as it was buried by earth. Excavations began in 1910 and by 1933, performances in the theater began.

Before visiting Merida, take a look at the performance calendar of the Roman theater. Photo credit: Antonio M. Mora García

As you can see, the Roman ruins in Merida are simply remarkable. Walking around these ancient buildings really gives you an appreciation of how well these monuments have been preserved over the centuries. If you’d like to see some more of Spain’s fantastic gems, check out our tours in cities such as Madrid, Barcelona, Sevilla, and San Sebastian

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Ultimate Guide to the 8 Coolest Cocktail Bars in Amsterdam https://devourtours.com/blog/cocktail-bars-in-amsterdam/ Mon, 30 Sep 2024 15:34:34 +0000 https://blog-test-1.walks.org/?p=39969 You could say the Dutch invented gin. That’s because the Dutch (along with their similar-speaking neighbors, the Flemish) created juniper-flavored genever in the Middle Ages. It was originally intended for medicinal purposes (that it made you feel a bit tipsy was a bonus). By the 17th century, the British discovered it, called it “gin,” eventually […]

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You could say the Dutch invented gin. That’s because the Dutch (along with their similar-speaking neighbors, the Flemish) created juniper-flavored genever in the Middle Ages. It was originally intended for medicinal purposes (that it made you feel a bit tipsy was a bonus). By the 17th century, the British discovered it, called it “gin,” eventually mixed it with tonic, and the G&T was born. 

This all just goes to show that the Dutch, particularly in Amsterdam, have a long history with spirits and cocktails. Today, Amsterdam is sprinkled with both traditional spirit-serving spots and newfangled cocktail bars stirring and shaking up craft cocktails that have been getting the attention of the international cocktailerati for a few years now. 

If you’re in Amsterdam and thirsty for a spirit-laden concoction—with genever or something else—point yourself to one (or more) of what we consider to be the coolest cocktail bars in Amsterdam

The creative cocktails at the Flying Dutchman are legendary. Photo credit: Flying Dutchmen Cocktails

Labyrinth

An Afro-Caribbean-themed cocktail bar, Labyrinth is helmed by Cameroon-born Sam who has been shaking up excellent spirit-based libations at this bar near Vondelpark in south Amsterdam since 2016. If you want some food in your stomach to prolong a night of cocktail sipping, the bar also cooks up some excellent Jamaican-inspired fare. 

Pulitzer’s Bar

One of the best cocktail bars in Amsterdam is hidden in the stylish and central Pulitzer Hotel. A classic bar with its own entrance on Keizersgracht, Pulitzer’s Bar has a smattering of lounge-y chairs to get comfy in but the best spot is at one of the six leather-bound chairs at the bar where you can watch (and chat with) suspender-clad, bowtie-wearing bartenders who will be mixing up classic cocktails. 

Pulitzer’s Bar is a wonderfully laid-back place to get together with friends, or just belly-up to the bar solo to chat with the bartenders. Photo credit: Pulitzer’s Bar

HPS

An acronym for Hiding in Plain Sight, HPS is a diminutive cocktail bar in Amsterdam with expert drink mixers behind the bar. Tell them, even in the vaguest terms, what flavor profile you like, and the bartenders will please your palate with a robust mixture of spirits and liquids. The name is a reference to the speakeasy vibe of the place: no sign in front, minimal website presence, all very hush hush. Since the space is so small, make a reservation before coming here. 

Flying Dutchman Cocktails 

No list of the cool cocktail bars in Amsterdam would be complete without the Flying Dutchman Cocktails. The first thing you might notice when you step into this local favorite is the enormous amount of bottles behind the bar. There are 800, to be exact, making it the largest stocked bar in the entire country. Friendly owners Timo and Tess serve up classic cocktails, often with contemporary twists. The award-winning bar, open every night until 4am, is smack in the center of the Amsterdam action. 

The Flying Dutchman has the most extensive cocktail menu in the city. Photo credit: Flying Dutchmen Cocktails

Dutch Courage

The sister bar of Flying Dutchman—located near the main railway station—Dutch Courage trafficks solely in Dutch spirits. So, expect a lot of genever. In fact, the bar stocks over 150 brands of genever.  You can even order a kopstootje—a beer and a glass of genever, a traditional combo that has been served in bars around Holland for generations. This is a great place to drink your way through Dutch history. 

Kopstootje is a local drinking ritual where patrons put their hands behind their backs, bend over, and slurp genever straight from the glass. Photo credit: Jenni Konrad

Door 74

Door 74 is not only one of the coolest cocktails bars in Amsterdam, but definitely one of the most mysterious. Around the corner from the Herengracht sits Door 74, a charming Art Deco-bedecked bar. That is, if you can find it. Ring the buzzer at the unmarked door—yes, that would be door number 74—and a gentle host will slowly swing open the door. Hopefully you’ve made a reservation. If so, you’ll be whisked to your seat, a menu will be placed in front of you, and the fun will begin. 

interior of dark bar with leather seats
Door 74 is perfect for those who want a top-quality cocktail without suffering loud crowds. Photo credit: Door 74

The speakeasy-style bar is dark and moody—ideal for a romantic evening, sipping cutting-edge and unusual cocktails with someone you like having deep, intimate conversations with. 

Want to enjoy more of Amsterdam’s best beverages? We recommend:

The Tailor 

Located in the city’s central Innenstadt near Dam Square, The Tailor shakes up some serious cocktails. With leather booths and plush leather stools at the bar, it’s easy to settle in here for the night of sipping classic cocktails in the dimly lit atmosphere. The bar is located inside the five-star Hotel Krasnapolsky. 

Wynand Fockink

This centrally located spot is not your typical craft or hipster cocktail bar. Wynand Fockink has been around much longer than the word “hipster.” Since the 17th century, in fact, this diminutive space has been producing its own genever. You can buy a bottle to go or drink samples in the atmospheric tasting room. They also stock various other kinds and brands of genever, so you can taste the spectrum. 

Making and pouring genever since the 1700s, Wynand Fockink has a loyal following of cocktail lovers. Photo credit: lydia mann

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The 9 Best Vietnamese Restaurants in Paris You Can’t Miss https://devourtours.com/blog/best-vietnamese-restaurants-in-paris/ Tue, 24 Sep 2024 16:18:08 +0000 https://blog-test-1.walks.org/?p=39971 France and Vietnam are inextricably linked due to France’s colonialist ways. From the middle of the 19th century until 1954, France occupied Vietnam. By the time the French left (or, um, kicked back to France), the country’s cuisine had been broadly influenced by the French. The current incarnations of pho—the soup-y national dish of Vietnam—and […]

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France and Vietnam are inextricably linked due to France’s colonialist ways. From the middle of the 19th century until 1954, France occupied Vietnam. By the time the French left (or, um, kicked back to France), the country’s cuisine had been broadly influenced by the French. The current incarnations of pho—the soup-y national dish of Vietnam—and the pork-and-vegetable-stuffed banh mi sandwich would not have existed without French influence. 

It’s no surprise that some of the best Vietnamese restaurants are found in the French capital. Sprinkled around the city, the best Vietnamese restaurants in Paris are unpretentious spots serving up full-flavored Southeast Asian fare

When you’ve had your fill of French classics, check out our list of the best Vietnamese restaurants in Paris. Photo credit: Do et Riz

Restaurants with the best Vietnamese food in Paris

Banoi

Diminutive Banoi is the brainchild of My Ly Pham who was born outside of Vietnam but traveled back frequently to visit grandparents, uncles, aunts, and cousins. Eventually, she started getting very familiar with the food of her ancestral Southeast Asian country and Banoi was born. 

The menu here deviates from most of the other Vietnamese restaurants in Paris. At Banoi, the spring roll is elevated to an entrée with several different varieties on the menu. There are also tapas-sized plates, such as banh mi spreads and succulent and tender pork ribs. 

two round bamboo steamers filled with spring rolls
It’s worth a visit to Banoi simply for their amazing spring rolls. Try as many as you can! Photo credit: Banoi

Traveler’s tip: Vietnamese restaurants in Paris do not disappoint, but there is a vast array of restaurants serving local and international dishes that’ll make you cry tears of joy. If you’d like to mix and match a bit between street food and Michelin-starred restaurants, we’ve got you covered with the 8 Places for the Best Lunch in Paris.

Pho Bida Viet Nam

Set on Rue Nationale in the 13th arrondissement, Pho Bida Viet Nam is a favorite among Vietnamese cuisine-loving Parisians. The restaurant has a menu loaded with varieties of pho and even the Hanoi staple bun cha.  

A bowl filled with Vietnamese grilled pork and noodles,
A warm bowl of bun cha is always a good idea. Photo credit: Philipp Manila Sonderegge

Dong Huong

For nearly three decades, Dong Huong has been serving up excellent Vietnamese fare in Belleville. Unlike many other Vietnamese restaurants in town, the menu is as large as the restaurant is spacious. Here you can dig into a banh xeo, a southern Vietnamese crepe stuffed with shrimp and veggies; grilled meat, and spring rolls. There is also a section of the menu refreshingly dedicated to northern Vietnamese staples, such as bun cha and northern-style chicken pho. 

crepe with filled various veggies next to salad
Vietnamese crepes in Paris? Yes, please! Photo credit: FullyFunctnlPhil

Do et Riz

Located on the Right Bank, a short stroll from Place d’Aligre in the 12th arrondissement, Do et Riz has an excellent take on bo bun, a bowl of vermicelli noodles, vegetables, and a protein of your choice. It’s not surprising the Viet fare here is a notch (or three) above the rest. The owner and chef worked in the kitchen of Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse before opening up this 35-seat restaurant in 2015. 

When you want to branch out from your favorite dishes, stuffed eggplant is always a great option. Photo credit: Do et Riz

Entre2Rives

“Between 2 Banks” is centrally located in the 2nd arrondissement, so if you’re in the center of Paris you won’t have to walk far to get your taste buds on some deep-flavored pho broth. Entre2Rives has pho, spring rolls, and other Vietnamese staples, but don’t neglect the dumplings on the menu, which are a standout. 

Mai Do

Set in Montparnasse, Mai Do has a short menu that is long on flavor. There are only a couple of pho options but if the soft shell crab pho is offered, do yourself a favor and order it. It’s delicious. The banana flower salad is also worth your stomach space. Service here is often impeccable. 

Phô Tai

Chef Te fled Vietnam in 1968, resettled in Paris, and eventually opened up what some say is the best Vietnamese restaurant in the French capital. Phô Tai is a diminutive spot and it’s not unusual to find a line of hungry pho-loving Parisians waiting outside for a coveted table. 

The menu covers Vietnamese standards, including, of course, bowls of steaming hot pho with a powerful broth. Other menu items worth standing in line for are the crispy fried spring rolls, the flat mushroom-and-pork-stuffed banh cuon dumplings, and the lemongrass-spiked fried chicken. Phô Tai is located in the 13th arrondissement on 13 Rue Philibert Lucot

If you need a pho fix while in Paris, this is the place to get it. Photo credit: Kanesue

Pho 13

Named after the arrondissement it calls home to, Pho 13 is also right smack in the middle of the Asian Quarter of Paris. They offer an array of Vietnamese dishes, some of which are not often found at other restaurants in Paris. Mooncakes with rolled pork, for example, or steamed rice sheets with shrimp. The menu also has variations on the theme of Hanoi-style pho and plenty of vegetarian-friendly stir fry delights. 

Song Heng

There are only three items on the menu at Song Heng, located within a short stroll from the Arts et Metiers metro station. Pho is one of them and it’s very slurp worthy here. The other is bo bun, a southern Vietnamese dish of rice noodles, veg, pork, and slices of fried spring rolls that is nearly ubiquitous in Vietnamese restaurants in Paris. Rounding out the menu are crispy spring rolls that make for an ideal starter to share with dining companions.

We love the variety of flavors that come with Vietnamese food. Photo credit: Kirk K

As you can see, this list of the best Vietnamese restaurants in Paris is going to lead you to some very delicious lunch and dinner options. And if you’d like to delve deeper into the Parisian culinary world, make sure to sign up for our Ultimate Paris Food Tour. From French bread, cheese, and wine to Middle Eastern-inspired sweet treats, you’ll be able to taste the best that Paris has to offer.

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Discover the 9 Best Restaurants in NYC’s Little Italy for Italian Food Lovers https://devourtours.com/blog/best-restaurants-in-little-italy-nyc/ Mon, 05 Aug 2024 17:42:29 +0000 /?p=23365 Little Italy once consisted of a large swath of lower Manhattan, stretching from the Bowery to Lafayette Street and Houston Street in the north, down to Worth Street in the south. In 1910, there were 10,000 Italians living in this lower Manhattan neighborhood, one of the poorest parts of New York City at the time.But […]

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Little Italy once consisted of a large swath of lower Manhattan, stretching from the Bowery to Lafayette Street and Houston Street in the north, down to Worth Street in the south. In 1910, there were 10,000 Italians living in this lower Manhattan neighborhood, one of the poorest parts of New York City at the time.

But as Italians moved up the economic ladder around the middle of the 20th century, they moved to middle-class neighborhoods in Brooklyn and New Jersey. Today, Little Italy is merely a five-block stretch of Mulberry Street. And yes, you can eat well here; keep reading to discover our picks for the best restaurants in Little Italy.

pizza
Hungry? You can find everything from roasted scallops to Roman-style pizza in this iconic New York neighborhood.

Must-try restaurants in Little Italy

Lombardi’s

Claiming to be the first pizzeria in the United States, Lombardi’s first fired up its pizza-making oven in 1905 on the corner of Mott and Spring Streets, a prime time when Italians were fleeing their homeland to hopefully start a better, more prosperous life in New York and beyond.

The pizza here is still excellent. It’s thin. It’s crispy. And it’s tangy from the tomato sauce – exactly as New York pizza should be. Do yourself a favor and take advantage of complimentary sprinkling of chopped garlic that Lombardi’s offers to put on any pizza. It gives it an extra delicious zing.

Man pulling a slice of white pizza from a pan with strings of cheese connecting it to the main pizza
Lombardi’s white pizza is topped with fresh mozzarella, ricotta, romano, garlic, herbs, and basil. Photo credit: City Foodsters

Parm

Started by chefs Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone who have gone on to create a rich restaurant empire (Dirty French, Santina, Sadelle’s and ZZ Clam Bar, among others), this location of Parm was the first of what would become a mini-chain, serving up—surprise, surprise—chicken, meatball, and/or eggplant parm sandwiches. And they’re excellent. They also do some high-quality versions of Italian-American pasta staples like spaghetti with meatballs and baked ziti.

Di Palo’s Fine Foods

Long, long, long before that questionably named Italian mega-store Eataly crossed the Atlantic and plopped itself down in the Flatiron District of Manhattan, this food purveyor was selling superlative Italian foodstuffs in Little Italy. And it still does. Stop at Di Palo’s to pick up some juicy, tender porchetta, massively meat-stuffed sandwiches, and antipasto salads.

Opened in 1925, Di Palo’s offers wine, meats, cheese, sauces – even handmade burrata! It doesn’t get much finer than this.

Peasant

Lauded New York chef Marc Forgione runs the excellent Peasant, which has been open since 1999, and is dominated by its massive wood-fired oven. Much of the menu goes into that oven and it’s all delicious. Think: wood-roasted oysters spiked with bone marrow, fire-roasted scallops, juicy suckling pig, and ultra-tender lamb chops.

Aunt Jake’s

Even though this restaurant is smack in the heart of Little Italy’s restaurant row, Aunt Jake’s somehow eschews the schlocky decor and the aggressive menu-holding sidewalk restaurant barkers that have infected so many other eateries along Mulberry Street.

The sleek interior is a fine venue to sample the many handmade pastas, which is the specialty here. The sweet potato gnocchi and the squid-ink bucatini are particularly great. The restaurant allows diners to mix and match with pasta shapes and sauces, so the combinations are endless.

A person wearing a black shirt holding homemade fresh fettuccine noodles
In search of fresh pasta? You’ve come to the right place! Photo credit: Alex Lvrs

Emporio

Located in NoLIta, or the northern, less tacky part of Little Italy, Emporio is a Roman-accented eatery with a menu of excellent pasta options, including a particularly toothsome cacio e pepe and rigatoni alla Norcina, a sausage-laced pasta dish from Umbria that one doesn’t see on this side of the Atlantic very often. Emporio also fires up some excellent thin-crust Roman-style pizzas.

Pascuale Jones

Talented chef Ryan Hardy, partner and chef at lauded eateries Charlie Bird and Legacy Records, is the top toque at this excellent pizza-and-pasta centric spot. The pies at Pasquale Jones are Neapolitan and some of the best in the city and the amatriciana pasta dish will take your taste buds right back to Rome. There’s also a deliciously creamy chicken liver starter.

Plate of spaghetti with red pasta sauce and grated parmesean cheese at a restaurant
Pascuale Jones’ amatriciana will send you straight to Lazio. Photo credit: Barbara Glickler Notarile

Rubirosa

Located on the northern part of Mulberry Street, Rubirosa has been a local favorite since it opened in 2010. The domain of late chef Angelo Pappalardo whose parents still own and run legendary Staten Island pizzeria Joe & Pat’s, Rubirosa trafficks in excellent gas-fired crispy New York-style pizzas.

And while pizza is the main draw at Rubirosa, there are also great takes on pasta dishes such as carbonara that uses speck instead of the more traditional guanciale, a huge-portioned meaty lasagne for two, and crispy mini fried rice balls.

Emilio’s Ballato

Since 1956, this Houston Street spot has been serving al dente pasta dishes to a regular and adoring crowd. David Bowie lived around the corner and was a frequent diner. Lenny Kravitz still pops in from time to time. Located on the northern border of what was once considered Little Italy, Emilio’s has a very lived-in feel to it, as its walls are bedecked with black-and-white framed photos and other knickknacks, evoking a Southern Italian nonna’s living room. The menu is pretty straight-forward Italian with better-than-average pasta dishes and grilled meat options.

espresso coffee machine in italy
Yes, you can also find amazing espresso in Little Italy. Photo credit: tabitha turner

A word of caution

For visitors to New York seeking “authentic” Italian-American fare, heading to Little Italy might be tempting. However, Mulberry Street is flanked by a legion of mediocre restaurants that are in a competition with each other over whose “gravy” is redder, whose meatballs are bigger, and who can make a more outlandish fake Italian accent with which to speak to tourists.

If you’re in Little Italy and your stomach rumbles, you don’t have to eat subpar Italian fare. If you know where to stick your fork, you can find some great Italian restaurants—which sometimes means hitting some of the eateries on neighboring streets within the old boundaries of what constituted Little Italy. After all, according to the Italian-American Museum, Nolita isn’t an acronym for “North of Little Italy,” but rather “Northern Little Italy.”

NYC food tour
NYC food tour

Update notices: This post was updated on August 6, 2024.

If you couldn’t tell, we’re pretty serious about our Italian food here in New York. If you want to get in on the action, come along on our Greenwich Village food tour, where we visit some of our favorite Italian spots in the whole city. Buon appetito!

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9 Best Pinchos & Tapas on Calle del Laurel in Logroño https://devourtours.com/blog/calle-laurel-logrono/ Mon, 22 Jul 2024 16:51:02 +0000 https://blog-test-1.walks.org/?p=38705 Logroño, the under-rated capital of La Rioja, is a medium-sized city of 150,000 denizens that happens to have a fantastic dining scene. Sure, you can eat very well at a handful of the city’s best sit-down restaurants, including La Chispa Adecuada, Juan Carlos Ferrando, Tondeluna, and Michelin-starred spots Ikaro and Ajonegro, where you can have […]

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Logroño, the under-rated capital of La Rioja, is a medium-sized city of 150,000 denizens that happens to have a fantastic dining scene. Sure, you can eat very well at a handful of the city’s best sit-down restaurants, including La Chispa Adecuada, Juan Carlos Ferrando, Tondeluna, and Michelin-starred spots Ikaro and Ajonegro, where you can have a meal of elevated Riojan fare and it won’t max out your credit card.

Or you could just visit one street. Welcome to Calle del Laurel, a narrow lane in Logroño’s historical center that is about the length of a football field. And if you love food, particularly the food of northern Spain, then you’ll want to make sure you arrive hungry.

Here you’ll find a pedestrianized lane flanked by diminutive bars serving up flavor-popping tapas, or pinchos, as they’re called here, along with glasses of Rioja, all priced affordably enough that you can make a night of popping into bars, eating a small plate of something, drinking a glass of Rioja, and then doing it all over again and again and again, as you work your way down the street.

Calle Laurel Logroño
Walk down Calle del Laurel in Logroño for a culinary, cultural, and social experience. Also called “Calle Laurel,” this street is THE place to eat in the city. Photo credit: Zarateman

Some of the pinchos bars make an array of delicious small plates, many of which are displayed on the counter top, and some just make (or are known for) one particular superlative pincho.

So, when you’re in Logroño, and hopefully you’re in the mood for a pinchos crawl, point yourself to Calle del Laurel. Here are the best pinchos that you should be reserving stomach space for. Starting on the eastern end of Calle de Laurel and then moving westward until you reach the end of the street.

Where to Eat on Calle Laurel in Logroño

Bar Donosti

What to eat: Foie a la plancha.

Named after the town of San Sebastian in Basque Country—Donostia is the Basque name for the city—Bar Donosti has a line-up of excellent pinchos to feast on. If you’re only going to eat one here and move on, make it the grilled foie gras, which arrives on toast and is dapped with a jam made from lavender petals.

Foie a la plancha
Step into Bar Donosti for a bit of foie a la plancha that will blow your mind. Photo credit: Kirk K

Bar Sebas

What to eat: Tortilla de patatas.

Not all tortillas de patatas in Spain are created equal. In northern cities like Logroño, you could argue the tortillas they make here are superior. That’s because they leave the eggs (that are mixed with potatoes and, often the case, caramelized onions) a tad runny—or mocosa, to use the local parlance. Bar Sebas is a tortilla-making institution. As is the proclivity in La Rioja, a slice of runny tortilla here comes with a dollop of chili sauce, just to add a little kick.

Tortilla de patata is a pincho everyone will love.

Bar Jubera

What to eat: Patatas bravas.

Located across the lane from Bar El Muro is Jubera, a spot that has been operated for generations by one family. They serve one thing here and they do it very well: patatas bravas: fried cubed potatoes with an aioli and a slightly spicy sauce slathered over the top. Jubera is slightly half way through Laurel and is the ideal spot to consume some patatas bravas to soak up some of that wine you’ve drunk so far.

where to eat in barcelona on sundays
Bravas and wine? Calle del Laurel, in Logroño, will not disappoint.

Blanco y Negro

What to eat: Matrimonio.

Since the late 19th century, Bar Blanco y Negro has been serving up excellent pinchos and locally produced wine. The pinchos offerings are varied but locals know to come here for the matrimonio—a warm crispy bun is the “bed” for this lovely couple: salted, white anchovies and green peppers. A marriage made in deliciousness.

Calle Laurel Logroño, wine and tapas
Enjoy a glass of Rioja wine while trying the best pinchos in Logroño.

Bar Cid

What to eat: Setas.

You come to Bar Cid for one thing: grilled setas, or mushrooms, which are doused with a secret sauce. A pincho of setas comes on a soft baguette slice with a toothpick poked through it.

Bar El Perchas

What to eat: Orejita picante.

El Perchas has a menu of exactly two items: an orejita rebozada (a battered little pig ear sandwich) and an orejita picante (a spicy little pig ear sandwich). They’re both good, but the spicy variety is more like a stewed pigs ear with a kick to it. It’s more tender than its battered brethren.

Oreja de cerdo
Don’t miss the opportunity to try oreja, it’ll surprise you. Photo credit: Tamorlan

Bar Soriano

What to eat: Grilled mushrooms.

Located around the corner from Calle Laurel on Travesía del Laurel, a sort of Calle Laurel tributary lane, Bar Soriano is one of the most classic pinchos bars in Logroño and a local favorite.

They make one thing here: grilled mushroom caps, stacked on top of each other and doused in a garlicky sauce. On the bottom is a baguette slice that soaks up all the sauce and is a delicious last bite to this mushroom pincho. On the wall, there’s a sign that reads, “In Paris, the Eiffel Tower; In Rome, the Vatican; And in Logroño, the mushrooms of Soriano.”

Grilled mushrooms in Calle Laurel Logroño
If you’re craving mushrooms, head to Bar Soriano.

Bar Lorenzo

What to eat: Tío Agus.

Bar Lorenzo, located a bit further down Travesía del Laurel, specializes in grilled skewered meat. But the thing to get here is the Tío Agus: grilled sausage encased in a bread bun and doused with tangy salsa verde.

woman with auburn hair drinking from glass of red wine
Make sure to pair your pinchos with local Rioja wines.

Bar El Muro

What to eat: Ferrero Rocher de morcilla.

It’s not a coincidence that the Bar El Muro, literally “Bar The Wall,” opened in 1989, right around the time the Berlin Wall came tumbling down. The bar is loaded with lots of pincho deliciousness, but they also serve a very fun, unique dish: Ferrero Rocher de morcilla. Imagine: instead of chocolate, this is a tennis-ball-sized chunk of tasty morcilla (aka blood sausage) encased with pieces of peanuts. And it’s delicious.

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5 Reasons to Add La Rioja to Your Travel Plans in Spain https://devourtours.com/blog/la-rioja-spain/ Wed, 17 Jul 2024 21:03:26 +0000 https://blog-test-1.walks.org/?p=38584 Mention “Rioja” to many people and luscious red wine is the first thing they may think of. It’s true that the region of La Rioja, located in northeastern Spain, produces some of the best wine on the planet. Visiting some of the 500 wineries that produce vino here is reason enough to put the region […]

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Mention “Rioja” to many people and luscious red wine is the first thing they may think of. It’s true that the region of La Rioja, located in northeastern Spain, produces some of the best wine on the planet. Visiting some of the 500 wineries that produce vino here is reason enough to put the region into your GPS system and go.

But there’s much more to this diminutive region than great wine. La Rioja is crammed with medieval hill towns, ancient monasteries, dinosaur fossils, and a capital city that is teeming with energy and great food.

Here are 5 reasons why you should go to La Rioja.

A wine barrel of Rioja Wine
Wines make La Rioja, Spain internationally famous, but there’s more to discover in this region. Photo credit: Prometheus

Go on a pinchos crawl in Logroño

Logroño is the capital of La Rioja, and it’s a seriously off-the-radar gem of a city. About 150,000 people live here and they love to eat good food and drink affordable high-quality wine. So, it’s a good thing that the city has both.

Point yourself to the medieval center of town where you’ll find two streets, Calle de Laurel and Calle San Juan, both about the length of a football field. Calle de Laurel is the more raucous of the two. But whatever the case, both of these narrow alleyways are lined with diminutive tapas bars where you can pop in for a pincho (the local lingo for “tapa”) and drink a glass of locally produced wine for pocket change.

Some bars are known for one thing—patatas bravas, garlicky mushrooms, or a pig ear sandwich, for example—and some bars have countertops crammed with various delicious-looking small plates.

When you’re full and need some non-eating activities, Logroño also boasts a lovely cathedral with a painting attributed to Michelangelo, a museum dedicated to the history of La Rioja, and a network of narrow lanes to get lost in.

group of people on the street enjoying a bite of something
Logroño’s main streets are the perfect place to enjoy pinchos and Rioja wine in great company.

Discover the origins of the Spanish language

There are two big reasons to visit the small town of San Millán de la Cogolla: Yuso and Suso. These two twin monasteries, one sitting slightly higher on a mountain than the other, are two centuries-old monasteries. It was here, at Suso (which means “up”), where the hermit San Millán, also known as Saint Aemilian, lived in the sixth century. Construction of the monastery began in the same century, and is the spot where the first written texts in the Spanish language were produced.

Yuso, which means “below,” is a “newer” monastery from the 11th century. The library here holds 10,000 books, many of which were the first books written in Spanish. Visitors today can take tours of the monasteries. Just the medieval aesthetics alone are worth the visit.

Yuso Monastery in La Rioja, Spain
If you’re planning a visit, make sure to book your monastery tickets in advance. Photo credit: Willi Bremen

Get up-close and personal with dinosaurs

Dinosaurs once heavily roamed the area that is now La Rioja. In fact, there’s even a dinosaur route that extends throughout the region and into neighboring Aragon.

But, if you’re going to visit one dinosaur-themed spot, make it this one: about 40 miles south of Logroño is El Barranco Perdido, otherwise known as The Lost Canyon. This dinosaur theme park in the town of Enciso has actual dinosaur footprints that you can gawk at, as well as caves with dinosaur bones.

Dinosaurs at El Barranco Perdido
Educational and fascinating, El Barranco Perdido is a must for any and all dinosaur fans. Photo credit: Josi

Get medieval

La Rioja is home to several lovely medieval villages and towns. If you have access to a car, you can spend a day or two cruising the curving roads of the region, and then strolling through some of these charming spots. A few places that should definitely be on your itinerary include:

La Rioja, Spain, San Pedro Cornago
If you rent a car, you’ll be able to travel all around La Rioja’s charming villages and towns. Photo credit: Diego Delso

Ezcaray

Located in Rioja Alta, this small town has a ski resort, a gorgeous 16th-century church (Santa María la Mayor), and an excellent Michelin two-star restaurant called Echaurren.

Ezcaray, La Rioja
Enjoy your Rioja in this charming square and soak in the Spanish lifestyle. Photo credit: Willi Bremen

Briones

A gorgeous hill town about 20 miles west of Logroño, Briones is made up of a few centuries-old churches and palaces, as well as a network of narrow cobblestone streets that are fun to get lost in. It’s also near the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture.

Briones, La RIoja, Spain
Briones is another beautiful town with plenty of wine and history in La Rioja. Photo credit: Arrano

Santo Domingo de la Calzada

There’s a legend in this small town that says that, in the 11th century, a hermit named Domingo had a bridge built over the Oja River (for which Rioja takes its name). That bridge aided pilgrims on the popular Camino de Santiago route (which pilgrims are still using today).

The village of Santo Domingo de la Calzada has a very impressive Romanesque cathedral and a charming main square.

Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a street nearby the cathedral
Walk down the streets of Santo Domingo de la Calzada and into its marvelous cathedral. Photo credit: Hugh Llewelyn

Get wined-up

And, of course, you can’t escape wine while in La Rioja, Spain. If you want to indulge in the region’s most famous product, you can do that very easily. It’s best to have access to a car, plus a designated driver. Then you can reach some of the best wineries in the region.

You can start by visiting the Vivanco Museum of Wine Culture, an institution that takes visitors through the history and culture of wine making in La Rioja.

If you don’t want to drive or don’t have access to a car, no problem. Base yourself in Haro, the self-proclaimed capital of Rioja (wine), where there are several tasting rooms from various wineries (or “bodegas,” as they’re called here).

If you’re in Logroño, Franco-Españolas is a 135-year-old winery just across the Ebro River from the historical center. It offers tours and tastings.

Enjoy visiting one of the 500+ wineries in La Rioja.

The post 5 Reasons to Add La Rioja to Your Travel Plans in Spain appeared first on Devour Tours.

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